Training for Fitness and Climbing

Running Shoes or What?

2011-10-14T16:48:00.002-06:00

I was looking around on Endless.com the other day and clicked on the trail leading to "Mens->Running Shoes" and was surprised at the number of presumed running shoes that were shown. I mean presumed as in "they might be intended by the manufacturer or purchaser as running shoes, but as someone who does run, I don't really feel like they are in fact running shoes".

This might be a false assumption on my part, and other runners might disagree, but in any case, this could be a tough uphill battle for these manufacturers if they want to be taken seriously.

Puma: don't they mostly make like really cute slippers that look something like track shoes?

Keen: those are the shoes that go well with your yoga/casual slacks.

Ahnu: see Keen above.

Etonic: seriously, I thought they were out of business.

Fila: soccer shoes?

Garmont: ski boots?

Oboz: see Keen above.

Skechers: they're for kids and they twinkle.

K-Swiss: tennis shoes?

Harley Davidson: really? it's a Malaysian knock-off Columbia, right?

Anyway, just a few random thoughts about running or running-styled shoes. Anyone have any opinions to add or need to set me straight?

Post-Marathon - Aspen Backcountry Aug 27, 2011

2011-09-04T11:11:00.001-06:00

Ran the Breck Independence Day 10k in 1:11 - not too bad really, considering how little time I spent on the trails prior to that, especially hills. I managed to injure the insertion of the left Iliotibial Band. Went to the chiropractor Angie has been using, got some E-Stim (Nigel it, please) and acupuncture. I bent the needles going in - made him laugh.

Had some more acupuncture and did some rolling, stretching and massage, and took two weeks off running completely. Figured that would pretty much undo my marathon attempt. Oh, well....

When I got back to running, with some input from my support people, I made a few little changes, and after a couple weeks did some trail intervals at Keystone Resort. Pretty decent, and no pain, so I figured maybe I could do the marathon after all.

Just then I got a last-minute "no one has signed up, please, please, please..." notice from Breck Rec for a trail half marathon. What the heck. I ran the Hunky Dory Half Marathon. Nearly 1500' of gain and loss. Really hurt a lot and beat me up bad. Made me rethink my goals for a bit. Maybe quit running and stick to just light duty treadmill work? (picture below is finish at Hunky Dory)

But what the heck again, 3 weeks later I decided to go ahead and give it a shot, though I'd been running only 15-20 mile weeks prior to that, and had never run more than 13.1 at any time in my life. I got to Aspen two nights before, and spent the day before walking the streets of Aspen killing time, acclimatizing, and just flushing blood through my legs. Angie flew in that night, and in the morning assisted me in preparing and getting to the start. (pic below is me in starting area, 5:45 AM in the dark)

I took off fairly slow and cruised to the top of the first large climb, but on the way down I felt really bad and hurt a lot. Like a lot. I managed to fall and hit my face, elbows, and knees in the dirt, but kept on going. The downhill starting beating me up really bad. I almost had to crawl down the area called Sunnyside - a red sand/dirt slippery trail with lots of rocks poking out. My Bondi's had almost no traction at all there.

The last big hill really sucked, but I made it. 7:30:04 - not great, but I did manage to finish the Aspen Backcountry Marathon. 5300' of gain and loss. My shoes were full of dirt, but I got no blisters or black toenails, so I'll post some shoe/sock/foot advice later. (pic above is the finish line at Aspen)

I've been running fairly slow this past week to recover. Did a modified hill interval session at Suncrest yesterday. Hurt my knees a lot on the downhill, so I cut it short by one set. But I am recovering, and did a lot of recovery work prior to bed last night and feel pretty good today. Active rest day fwiw.

Running Update Summer 2011

2011-06-25T18:35:00.000-06:00

On June 11 I did the 35th Anniversary Salomon Run the Rockies from Copper Mountain to Frisco. I managed to do it in 1:04:08, not bad for my first 10k ever.

Frisco 10k Garmin File

On June 25 I did the American Fork Canyon Half Marathon which passes Timpanogos Cave National Monument in American Fork Canyon (internationally famous for rock climbing). I did that in 2:09:36, which is a faster pace than my 10k. In fact, I hit the halfway point at 1:02. Not bad for my first half marathon ever.

AFCanyon Half Garmin File

In a little over a week I'll be running a trail 10k at Breckenridge CO. I pre-ran the course based off the map on the website, which varied from the directions slightly. I spent about 15 minutes being lost, but still did reasonably well.

Pre-Run Independence Day 10k

I'm wanting to do the Aspen Backcountry Marathon in 9 weeks. I've never run that far, and if I plug myself into week 9 (today is week 9 - Half Marathon) of the Hidgen Novice Two Plan it mostly works out to run a marathon at week 18 (the correct week).

I might be doing something similar to that for the next couple of months then. Right now I need to go recover from the half I ran this morning, but I'll totally bring you up to date soon.

How to buy a decent treadmill in 90 days or less

2011-01-24T18:52:00.011-07:00

You've asked me how in the world to make this all work for you. You're not lucky enough to have a Health Reimbursement Account at your place of employment. You're living from check to check. You don't know how to make it all work and it looks totally hopeless.

Here's a relatively simple answer that just about anyone who is truly motivated, and isn't just using the above as an excuse.

Get a job.

No. Wait a minute. I'm serious. Do you have 10 hours a week? Like, give up CSI for 3 months? Or maybe you're an ESPN addict. Give up Canadian Log Rolling Championships?

10 hours a week x $8.00 x 12 weeks = $1000.00

Since this will have almost no impact at all on your taxes, have them skip taking them out. You can do that with a second job. Really.

Here are a few really good treadmills for $1000 or less, with free shipping from one of my favorite places to get athletic equipment:

All three are name brand with free shipping (available as of this posting) and should have all the normal features most normal people really use, and should last a very long time. I have a Costco Treadmill with probably a thousand miles on it in the five years I've had it with no maintenance other than cleaning the belt and deck surface with one of those microfiber towels (don't do this if you're clumsy, I'm just sayin').

SO no more excuses. What's your future worth to you?

DIY: Twin D-Handle Long Chain Workout Accessory

2011-01-02T11:36:00.002-07:00

If you want to maximize your Range of Motion (ROM) in a pulling movement, Lat Rows or Lat Pulldowns for example, I think that nothing beats a long chain. The stuff you buy in the stores or online is usually short and the angles are locked, so it won't allow your natural body mechanics and minor irregularities of joint angles to fully express themselves during the movement. In plain English, you can hurt yourself.

First of all, I picked up the following items at Lowe's (Home Depot or whatever is fine):

1 10' 2/0 chain
3 1/4 screw links
1 7/16 snap link

At Sports Authority I got a pair of single D-Handles. All together, the total was pretty close to $30, about the price of a standard Double-D Welded Handle.

I didn't need a whole 10' of chain, but I have some other stuff I'm working on, and I had the good fortune to already have a Bolt Cutter, but you could get bulk chain and cut it at the hardware store. I counted out links and cut two 2' sections.

I put two screw links in the two D-Handles, and connected each to one end of one piece of chain.

Then connected the two pieces of chain at the other end with the snaplink. I added the last screw link in to adjust the length when I use it. Below you can see how I connected the trailing extra chain to one side with the screw link to keep it from flopping around in motion.

For my "test" I put it on my Lat Tower in my Power Rack.

I did some Low Lat Rows, showing here how the fuller range of motion really hits the Rhomboids:

For only about $30 and about 15 minutes of work, I built my own Long Chain Twin D-Handle Accessory Attachment. Well worth the effort and money and time.

Video Demonstrates Proper Use as Low Row on Lat Tower.

The "fully used up" fallacy examined

2010-12-23T14:42:00.003-07:00

This is a paraphrase of a common statement you hear from "young punks" in extreme sports like snowboarding, rock climbing, kegging, etc.

Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming-WOW! What a Ride!

Let's compare that to driving into a gas station at 2 AM arriving on fumes. How often does that work out for you? "Next services 96 miles" said the sign. You check, and about 1/4 tank, which is about 4 gallons, at 24 miles per gallon equals 96 miles. Sure, let's go for it. We should probably try to get there ASAP, so let's go 120 mph the whole way. Yeah.

The problem is that a lot of people who live like that hit Empty at around age 35 and realize "Oh, Crap! I'm only about half way there. Now what?". Maybe that's why a lot of these "extreme athletes" are pro-socialized-medicine. ;)

While I've totally ridden that life-and-death edge a number of times, I also feel the effects every day of accumulated injuries that I probably would have taken better and proper care of had I realized I would live this long.

So my advice is go ahead and live by the above creed, but do yourself a favor and plan your timing right. If you plan to die all used up, then plan to die when you're all used up. Just my two cents.

Personal Trainers, Coaches and You

2010-12-12T20:25:00.001-07:00

One important train of thought as you decide on a program, especially if you're a rank beginner, involves Personal Trainers. A lot of gyms offer "trainers" as part of a membership package, or offer them as an extra, maybe with a free trial period.

Let me share some of my past with you before I go much further down that rail.

Several years ago, maybe 8 or 9 (?) I had a relative who very badly wanted to help people, and after a brief tour of massage schools, decided on personal training. They signed up for ISSA (one of the mainstream personal training study/school/certification businesses) and received the study manual. After almost a year of study they attended a weekend seminar that involved intense training and ended with the test. They failed.

In an effort to support them, I picked up the manual and skimmed it quickly, then said "I'll study with you and go with you to the next seminar". Actually I was a huge slacker and picked up the manual half-heartedly, and didn't really care one way or the other about it, whether I passed or not, I was just supporting them. After about three months we went to the seminar, and they failed again. I passed and was certified, though I never did anything with it, since I had a decent job.

Now, I was in my 40's, had been training off and on since I was 19, had read a crapload of books and articles, and had tried dozens of fads, so maybe I was a bit ahead of the 8-ball here, but still, if someone that studied for 15 months and attended two intense seminars can fail, it can't be shooting fish in a barrel, but then, I had merely skimmed the study guide and gone to one workshop, so it can't be that hard? I don't know.

Anyway, after all that, I felt pretty confident about programming (designing a routine that is doable to achieve goals), but it's only been recently that I've discovered "coaching". The distinction is important to you. Here goes ...

A trainer can design a program, walk around with you and help you set up machines, and help you stick to numbers and charts and graphs, talk to you and keep you amused. But you notice how they generally avoid the free weights at most gyms? That's because then we enter the realm of coaching.

I had no clue about the proper mechanics of a squat or deadlift until very recently, and I've been doing them for years. With a machine it's pretty hard to damage yourself, but you can really tear yourself up doing a bad bench press (and a quick google on shoulder pain in bench pressing will show you how easy it is to do). I think too that if you're younger, you can survive and recover from very poor technique and pull it off, so might not even notice (hence the amazing growth of the P90 and Cross stuff).

So what do you need? If you're in a gym using machines, programming is probably fine. If you're ready to take the plunge into free weights and you're young and in reasonably good shape, especially your joints, maybe Crossfit will do. Later, if you decide you want to lift real weights, and use good technique, maybe a coach would be better. IMHO FWIW YMMV ;)

Training Waypoint

2010-11-21T21:42:00.000-07:00

It's a good idea when training to find some waypoint, some marker that you can refer to regularly to compare progress. One good standard of comparison is the before and after picture. I haven't been too good about that over the past few years, though I do have some from several years ago if I can dig them out.

I decided today after my PM weight workout to take some so I can compare myself and see what works and what doesn't, maybe determining when I'm "done" for now.

I took pictures from several standard angles and "poses". Front, side and rear relaxed or natural, and then a few with muscle tension. I liked this one and thought I'd share it right away. I might put up a few of the others soon. I like how now in this pose there's very little "tire" around my midsection, though I have a ways to go. I was tested at 14% bodyfat at the University of Utah PEAKS Performance Lab. I'd like to hit 10% by March 15th, 2011.

Your Best First Training Program - Weights

2010-10-31T10:45:00.003-06:00

Weight Training, or perhaps phrased more accurately Resistance Training, is slowly gaining acceptance by more and more people, and has been proven by several different scientific studies to be one of the most efficient ways to help your body burn more calories, and assist in the calorie deficit needed to lose fat.

You don't need to worry too much about machines vs. free weights, and a valid case could be made that with proper usage, you'll get great results with either.

Remember: Anything you do is better than nothing you do.

Your best simplest introduction to the world of weight training is to focus on one body part or group for one half hour with 100 repetitions, or "reps". Your most important body parts are Chest, Back, Shoulders, Legs. The simplest, or best, exercises for you might be different than for some people, based on your body type, or previous injuries or other limitations, but the most bang for the buck, functionally, would be:

Legs: Squat or Leg Press
Chest: Bench Press or Chest Press or Fly
Shoulders: Military Press or Shoulder Press or Lateral Raise
Back: Pulldown or Row

Depending on what type of gym you go to or equipment you have, and working around your own physical limitations, pick something, anything, from the list. Unless you've done this before and have a good idea what amount of weight you can do safely, you might spend a week experimenting before you get started on this program.

Your 100 reps can actually be anything that works in a half hour. Sets x Reps: 10 x 10, 20 x 5, 4 x 25, 8 x 12. In fact, you could even set a timer on your phone (there are some pretty cool phone apps called "Tabata" or "Crossfit" timer that you can make work), and do 100 sets of 1 rep at 20 second intervals and still do this.

Remember: Anything will work for 3 weeks.

Every day except your one rest day, do the exercise from this list for that day in the same order for 100 total reps in one half hour, and keep the order for the rotation.

Example: Mon: Chest, Tue: Back, Wed: Shoulders, Thur: Legs, Fri: Chest, Sat: Back, Sun: Off

... and keep going.

You're going to ask about Abs or Core now, right? You're going to do that first as a warmup and not count it in the half hour. Just do three minutes of something that isn't a Circus Trick (if you're hanging on cables and rollers and look like something from Ka that's not appropriate for this phase of your training) before you start your main weight for the day. It's really that simple.

One of the most important aspects of this program is Logging. You need to Log your workouts.

Example:

Monday xx/xx/xxxx 7:43 AM:
Abs: 3 minutes 4 x 12 decline crunches
Chest Fly: 8 x 12 @ 25 lb dumbbells - 27:30 minutes

You need to do 100 reps. If you can't at the weight or resistance (machine setting) you've selected, go down a couple notches and continue to finish out the half hour. Keep track of it and do better next time. If it's too easy and you feel like you could do 200, add some and keep going. Experiment. In the above example, notice I got done quickly, meaning I didn't need as much rest, meaning I could probably go up to 27.5 lb weights, or maybe try 10 sets of 10 instead.

Keep at it for between 3 and 6 weeks. This will build a great foundation for other, more complicated or more intense programs.

Let me know how it goes.

Blogging and Disclaimer

2010-10-29T19:56:00.000-06:00

I'm reading an awesome book right now, and I really am not using that term loosely or inappropriately in the least.

UnMarketing: Stop Marketing. Start Engaging by Scott Stratten. It's a really cool book primarily about Twitter, but as well other social media, for business. I do use Twitter for myself, and have purposely separated myself from my main source of income, for many reasons that I won't go into here.

Be that as it may, there's a really interesting recurring theme regarding FTC guidelines, and I thought I'd go into full disclosure mode, just in case.

At the time of this writing, I'm a Goal0 Elite Team Athlete. This means I get free stuff to haul around the world and test in odd environments. I review it and post pictures. While they do financially compensate some of their athletes, I am not one of them. Everything else I review or show or write about I paid for myself with my own money. If over time this changes, I'll be sure to mention it.

I am also an Amazon Affiliate. I put links to Amazon goods on my site, and if someone buys anything under an extremely complicated set of rules that are totally not in my favor, I get a few cents. AFAIK in the last 8 years or so I've been doing it, I've totaled about $3. For this reason I believe that I've put the link up so you can see more pictures and read more reviews using their bandwidth, and not that I'm going to make anything off it. Sometimes I put up an Amazon link for something I bought somewhere else, so buyer beware, shop around, and make the best choice for you.

That being said, I do really like Amazon and Endless, and love the idea of paying once for essentially free shipping for the rest of the year.

Having had "the discussion" with some business associates, I've had to rearrange my schedule for the next year, but have gone into intense training mode once more, and will share some of that with you over the next few weeks.

Aconcagua Training - Part Two

2010-02-07T09:43:00.002-07:00

It's been a couple weeks since my last post about training for Aconcagua. In the meantime I've taken my running up a bit, having done one run a little over 4 miles on a snow-covered trail at 9300' near Keystone Colorado at 6 degrees wind chill. It was great. I've upped my intervals to 3 minutes run and 1 minute walk, and calculated my running pace at a 9:26 mile. Not great, but I haven't run in about 15 years, so I'll just get used to it slowly.

I mentioned weights the last time, and here's my general weight training plan in a nutshell. I have two alternating weight workouts.

1) Squat and Pull: full squats to just below parallel, bent over row, lat pull down, negative pull ups, Haney shrug.

2) Deadlift and Press: deadlift, narrow bench press, shoulder lateral.

In addition, I normally do some mix of goodmorning, leg extension, leg curl, hanging leg lift, ab crunch, buttup, oblique lift, straight leg deadlift, Russian twist, various planks, and a few others that escape me at the moment.

This might not seem like a lot, but I'm doing either 2 sets of 25 with a weight that makes me have to rest-pause in the second set (rest-pause from DC training so you take three breaths when you can't go on, then go on), or I'm doing 10 sets of 5 with a weight that makes the last two sets really suck. Overall it's a lot of volume, and is a challenge to recover from when doing daily. Yes, daily.

I prefer doing weights in the morning and recovering over the day. I'll do about 10 to 20 minutes on a stationary bike or elliptical, then go on about to the hour mark with weights.

For real cardio I've been trying to run 3 or more times a week, and I have an incline treadmill that goes up to 40% that I've been walking on at around 1.5 mph or less in mountain boots and pack (a speed that allows me to walk without hanging on or falling off). That gets me about 3,000' per hour pace. I try to do that 4 times a week too.

For fun I'll try to Ice Climb once a week, and indoor rock gym climb once a week. Sometimes more if I'm lucky. I also try to get in one outdoor hill climb if I can.

That's a hectic schedule, and it's slowly evolved into that as I've lost more and more fat and gotten into better and better fitness.

Some tips hints and "secrets".

I've always been good at the "posterior chain" as they say in power lifting parlance. This is the hamstrings and glutes. I'll do deadlifts any day of the week. I hate squats. I hate doing quads. To help focus my squats onto my quads, and help keep the bar up (I have disproportionately long arms and legs, and a short torso) I use a little device called a Manta Ray. It slips onto the bar relatively simply and is great. It helps stabilize the bar, pads your shoulders and keeps the bar higher, which for many people will transfer the motion to your quads. Get one if you're not currently doing bodyweight squats (and if you are doing 2x bodyweight squats, you certainly don't need any advice from me).

If you're older, as I am, you should consider your recovery needs very carefully. I used to ride my bike full throttle 30 miles a day 365 days a year 25 years ago. I can't do that now. You also should protect your joints. Find supplements and topical substances that work for you. Also, please do yourself a favor and avoid the trendy dynamic motion olympic lift stuff that's fading in popularity with each passing moment. Leave that to the 24 year olds trying to recapture their high school youthfulness. If you do a movement or motion that results in any level of joint pain, stop immediately. Rest that joint for a few days and see what movement does work. It might take a lot of trial and error.

I recommend three books.
"New Rules of Lifting" - Back when I had an ISSA personal trainer certification, I met Alwyn at a seminar and talked to him at length. He's a great coach, motivator, knows his stuff, and he's a real survivor. Seriously. This is good basic simple stuff.

"Starting Strength" - More basics. Getting stronger is basic. If you were ever curious about the correct way to stand and move during the most basic common traditional strength exercises, this is it. Don't quibble over silly nuances like some powerlifter coaches will do. Perfect this then find your own path.

"Keys to the Inner Universe" - And if you want to know every single last thing there is to know, beyond the basics. Way beyond the basics - this is the book. Thousands of weight training ideas. Something in this book will work for you. Spend the rest of your life trying them all.

These, again, are my first recommendations for three books you should have in your library if you're serious about training with weights. I'll probably post a few more thoughts and updates as I get closer to Aconcagua, and beyond as I prepare for the next adventure. If you have any questions, suggestions, or comments, please feel free to share.

Kilimanjaro Summit Jan 1 2010

2010-01-30T21:42:00.002-07:00

Just a set of links pointing back to the whole series of my trip report for my Seven Summits Quest - first in the series, Kilimanjaro Jan 1 2010 at 6:45 AM followed by a summary with trip advice for those who want to pursue their own Seven Summits Dream.

Day Zero - Arrival
Day One - Morning Leave Machame Gate
Day One - Afternoon Arrive Machame Camp
Day Two Arrive Shira Camp
Day Three Arrive Baranco Camp
Day Four Arrive Karanga Camp
Day Five Arrive Barafu Camp
Day Six Summit Day
Day Six and Seven Descend to Mweka Camp and out.
Kilimanjaro Closing Thoughts and Advice

I end with advice for future climbers about some of the negative aspects of hiring local guides and possible ways to deal with it.

Aconcagua Training - Week One

2010-01-17T10:03:00.006-07:00

From my awesome Kilimanjaro trip, I learned a lot about myself since I had seven days of relatively slow hiking to ponder. I'm in the process of adjusting my workout based on my observations, but the coolest thing is I came back at less than 190 pounds and have managed to stay there. I started this whole adventure around Thanksgiving of 2006 at 235 pounds, so today at 185 pounds I've managed to lose 50 pounds over the past 38 months and keep it off.

I had promised myself that I would start running again if I ever got below 190, so last week after recovering for about 8 days after returning from Kili I started running in intervals at 2 minute run and 1 minute walk. The first day I did 10 minutes (miscounted and had extra run minute in the middle) and the second I did 18 minutes. Not sure how far, but I feel like I'm doing a 10 minute mile pace.

Today I did a vertical hike on the hill above Canyon Road (Timpanogos foothills). I managed to go up 1000' in 31 minutes, which is fairly good considering I chose a harder path and got into steep kneedeep breakable crust snow the last 200'.

On the way down I worked my way over one ridge to the North for some almost uninterrupted downhill snow running (after the top 200' of deep breakable crust which isn't runnable). It was great.

I got in one weight workout so far (more later on that) and feel really weak. I'll have to keep that up all the way to Aconcagua takeoff (I normally taper weights to nothing about 3 weeks out from a trip and focus entirely on cardio).

Seven Summits Kilimanjaro Blog

2010-01-15T12:47:00.004-07:00

My new blog about climbing specific to the Seven Summits will be found here:

sevensummitsquest.blogspot.com

I'll keep training, climbs and adventures not associated with the seven summits here on this blog.

Thank you Dick Bass.

Kilimanjaro Pics January 1 2010 Summit.

2010-01-07T21:33:00.000-07:00

Photos

Click the above to see photos of the Kili Climb. I'll blog more about it later with details. Enjoy.

Kilimanjaro Preparation: Yellow Fever

2009-12-23T20:18:00.002-07:00

Tanzania is on the WHO list of Yellow Fever Endemic countries. Zanzibar is "safe". Moshi or Arusha is iffy.

If you are from the United States or UK (yellow fever free zones) you can theoretically enter Tanzania with no layover or recent trip to another yellow fever endemic area, you can "legally" enter Tanzania without a yellow fever certificate.

If you are only going to arrive at JRO and go straight to your hotel, then straight to Kili, then from Kili straight to your hotel, then straight back to JRO, you "probably" won't need it, according to the International Travel Health Doctor at the University of Utah.

But if you're going to do a safari, or hang out at the hotel for more than a day either side of your climb, it's probably better to get it.

Potential side effects include "mild flu-like symptoms" which I can attest to includes aches and pains and intestinal complaints that actually can impact your training. I heartily recommend getting it early in your training, at least two months before you head to Tanzania.

Not like I did and get it 11 days prior.

Kilimanjaro Preparation - Clothing Top

2009-12-22T14:41:00.002-07:00

Again, from the last post, I'm climbing Kilimanjaro in Tanzania Africa, at over 19,000' it will be my personal high point.

For the top of my body, my clothing selection is:

1) patagonia t-shirt. works good.
2) smartwool midweight zip mock turtle
3) Vuade softshell. got it in Germany. Seems more for aerobic sports.
4) montbell micropuff - they don't sell it here, got it online clearance (this one has fleece panels under the arms)
5) montbell midweight parka (clearance montbell website)
6) solomon polarloft jacket (clearance steepandcheap - giveaway)
7) rei waterproof parka - about 10 years old (giveaway)

also, seen is a tourist "moab" fleece vest (giveaway)

Head:
1) 2 buffs
2) cloudveil fleece balaclava
3) TNF windblock fleece cap
4) TNF nylon baseball cap

Hands:
1) OR polarfleece gloves with reflective panels (great in the tent at night)
2) OR wool/fleece blend gloves (my new favorite)
3) OR gore mitts w/ OR 300 weight fleece liners (and #1 fits inside as well)

Is so many thin layers of micropuffy a luxury?

Kilimanjaro Preparation - Clothing Bottom

2009-12-22T10:50:00.005-07:00

Planning for Kili and having looked at several gear lists, I came up with the following combination for bottom layering:

1) patagonia briefs - 3 pair
2) smartwool midweight base layer
3) alpine designs fleece pants (clearance at Gart)
4) rei mistral schoeller pants
4a) black diamond "hex" belt (clearance gearexpress)
5) montbell waterproof pants (clearance at mountainworks provo)

I also have a pair of montbell puffy pants that I might take (clearance on the montbell website).

for feet:

3 pair silver thread liner socks
3 pair REI expedition wool socks
1 pair vasgue trail runners (clearance rei)
1 pair scarpa charmoz boot

luxury item: fleece socks for camp/sleeping

Extra-Ordinary Mom Goal0 Video Contest Finalist

2009-12-16T20:21:00.002-07:00

Angie is a finalist with Goal0's video contest "What Powers Me?" with her "Extra-Ordinary Mom" video.

Take a look:

Click to see What Powers Me Video Contest.

Please vote by adding it to your Favorites (click the favorites button) and rating it (click the 5th star please).

Enjoy the video, some of which was shot in Utah, some on Mt. Rainier, some by the condo in Colorado, and shows some of the adventurous things you can do as a mom with a spirit of adventure.

Back to the Gym at Momentum Climbing in Sandy Utah

2009-11-30T22:17:00.002-07:00

It's been great to get back to feeling good. After all the stress of the Summer and Fall, after all the death and illness, after all the traveling, it's been good to get back to the gym.

Last Saturday we got to Momentum and climbed. Of course, like I've said a dozen or more times, the routesetters there are too lame in the 5.9 and under range, and sure enough, I did a 5.6 that totally sucked, and a 5.8 that totally sucked, but then I decided to do a SoIll 5.10a for kickes. I managed to onsite it with lots of good rests. I was amazed. DW got in some great climbing as well, working her way back into the 11's where she belongs, even though it's been about 2 months since we've climbed.

Tonight (Monday, Nov 30) we managed to get back again, and this time I did a really pumpy 5.7 on the curvy front wall, and it totally got my fingers tired. Then I got on a 5.10a SoIll route by a different setter, and got pumped about halfway up and couldn't get my heart rate down by hanging, so I came down. I then got on a really slopey 5.10a on the short arete and actually really liked it up to about 2/3 of the way up. I worked that crux hard, and stuck it, but then came down, wasted for the night. Angie got on it, but she'd been working a really crimpy 5.12a so she was pretty pumped and shook out a lot on the way up, but she did really good. It's cool to think she's working a 12. Awesome.

Anyway, just have to not take the lower rated routes seriously, keep a good attitude, and get all those 10's out of the way.

Light Saber Lobotomy

2009-11-12T11:51:00.002-07:00

Awesome irony.

A couple neighbor kids have been bragging about the fully functional lightsabers they're building and our boys asked me about it and I explained that no reasonable interpretation of existing physics would allow for such a thing and explained why.

HOW TO BUILD A LIGHTSABER THAT WORKS note: 1) reference to very large power supply 2) reference to rocket engine style power supply 3) reference to Mr. Fusion style power supply 4) reference to magnetic interference ie: speaker magnet disrupting plasma field.

The boys of course needed to share that with their friends and the response they got?

"Your dad is dumb. He doesn't know anything."

That hurt the boys feelings pretty bad. Me? I've been called worse by better people, but you have to love the solid belief in fantasy at that age.

I won't discount it completely though, notice I said "existing" physics. If you apply Moore's Law to Lightsaber Construction, we're about 300 years out.

IF there is any reason to build one besides proving it's possible. I mean, a relative handful of clone troopers wiped the galaxy clean of Jedi assisted by a couple Sith. Just because you're packing a lightsaber doesn't make you invincible. Nor does pseudo-mystical power. Even Yoda cowered in self-imposed exile in a dank swamp after confronting one single sith with lightning and teleporting skilz.

;)

Orizaba Mexico Volcano Solo Climbing Trip - 1 Planning

2009-10-12T12:18:00.004-06:00

Again, I'll be heading to Mexico to attempt Orizaba. I think I have the kinks out of my system this time, with better boots and clothing systems than last time. I have a much better idea of food and water and cooking than last time. Last time I think was a bit premature for a solo, but I did manage the traveling part pretty good with my meager Spanish.

Of course, fly to Mexico City, go to the Estrella Roja terminal and get the bus to Puebla, then go down to the central CAPU terminal and get tickets to Tlachichuca.

There is a reasonable (by Western Standards) hotel across from CAPU if you want to spend the night in Puebla. According to the Estrella Roja staff you don't want to take the overhead walkway at dark, or leave the immediate vacinity of the hotel (though I did walk down the block a short ways to the convenience store at night but the pizza delivery guys were right there watching the whole time). If you want, this is a good time to take the cab to Walmart and stock up. I've heard (but can't confirm) that you can buy gaz containers there. If you want to go cheaper go to the Zocalo, but be careful not to miss your morning bus and plan time for morning traffic.

If you want to stay in Tlachichuca instead, there are a couple of inexpensive places to stay and the two "outfitters" there. Notice I separated those two concepts. If you are going to use one of the outfitters for your ride, they leave at one set time each day (assume around 11:00 AM for general planning purposes). If you get to Tlachichuca before this, you can go. If you arrive after this, you have to spend the night. I've read various dirtbag accounts of camping in the foothills etc. but don't do it. You should be able to scrounge up the $15 to spend the night in town.

If you get a ride with the outfitters, you shouldn't even bother with a backpack (unless you plan on a high camp). Just take as much crap as you can in a duffle or two. Go luxury this way with thick foam mattresses. It's all going on the roof of the truck.

Or, you can take a taxi to Hidalgo at about 11,000' - the furthest a passenger car can go. You'll have to hike in a ways up about 3,000' but it's great acclimatization. You'll have to take your own stuff all the way though, so you'll have to carry a large weight-efficient backpack and be careful of what you take. This option is a LOT cheaper than the outfitters. The road is obvious and not hard at all on foot, even with a very heavy pack.

In either case, you'll probably want to pick up some water - plan on 5 liters per day. There is water available with a short hike, but you'll have to treat and/or filter it and that gear is probably heavier than the empty plastic bottles. Last time I drank tap water using a UV-C pen and it worked out good. YMMV. Some people just grab a 20 liter per person (dang cheap) and you can bum some off them.

Once at the hut you can either stay at the hut assuming there is room (it probably could hold more than 50 climbers with gear), or camp. If you camp, be aware that you want to be a fair ways away from the hut. The general waste disposal method near the hut is "squat and dump". Yep. Just find a couple square feet without anyone else's waste and let her rip. Wad up your paper (assuming as a first world nation citizen you use it) and let the wind carry it away. I'm not kidding too much. Seriously. So if you camp you'll want to be far from the hut, since I doubt anyone would waste much time in trying to dump away from it very far. Though I did see a huge ginormous human waste product in the middle of the trail at 15,200' the last time I was there, but I imagine it was an emergency, and not that they hiked up 1,300' for seclusion. Not in the middle of the trail. In spite of the size it was made by a girl. That's sexist isn't it?

It's possible that in the last 18 months that's changed. I'll let you know. Wouldn't that be one of those really cool "improve the third world nations" projects? Install a really good solar toilet at the hut? Anyone seriously interested? Oh, btw - there is a really old stone toilet good for about 100 dumps that looks like it was full about 10 years ago and not emptied.

So plan on your 11:00 AM takeoff or take a taxi and walk. Spend the night in Mexico City, Puebla, or Tlachichuca. Shop in Mexico City or Puebla. Yes, you can buy some things in Tlachichuca, at the few farmacias or the mercado (all small and no English).

Tip: it's cheaper to get a phone card at the farmacia and use the pay phone than it is to use your cell.

Note: with careful planning it's possible to take a redeye flight, the bus to Puebla, the bus to Tlachichuca and the outfitter ride at 11:00 AM - but it's really really tight. You won't have time for shopping and if traffic is really bad, you'll miss your ride. Only try this if you want to take the taxi so you have a few hours leeway and can get to the stores for food and gas.

Climbing Gym Owners

2009-10-04T19:16:00.002-06:00

I got this in an email from SteepandCheap.com

The guy who checks me in at the climbing gym was complaining to his coworker about their boss the other day. Apparently the staff member had worked for about 15 minutes before he remembered to punch in, so he punched in and then asked their boss to adjust the time to move it back 15 minutes.
Instead their boss pulled $2 out of his wallet and slapped it on the table and said, “This should cover it.” I know there’s something mean and hurtful in there, but that story really cracked me up. I’m glad I don’t work at that gym.

Lol, I guess they're all the same.

IMPORTANT - Utah Climb 4 Life Hera Foundation Event

2009-09-11T11:07:00.002-06:00

Sept 18 and 19, HERA Climb4Life fundraiser. Ovarian Cancer is an orphan cancer, with almost no money being poured into research, since unlike breast cancer, there is no profitable cut-and-dried series of treatments.

Angie will be climbing with the pros again in one of the canyons of the Wasatch Front. Please support her in reaching her fundraising goal for this year. She's over half way. Even $20 will be a great help.

CLICK HERE TO DONATE

Thanks.

Above is Angie on Problem 7 at the Citizen's Comp at Teva Mountain Games, 2009 in Vail Colorado

Junior Football Etc.

2009-08-10T21:43:00.002-06:00

Back in the day. Just driving home from Salt Lake and had a random thought. Not sure where it came from. When I was a kid, non-varsity sports was how you discovered talent for varsity sports. Wrestling was how you discovered varsity wrestlers. The coaches picked out the biggest meanest looking guys and had them tear up the rest. Any survivors were varsity wrestlers. They didn't care much if you learned anything or not, because it was just a means of discovering varsity wrestlers, so no technique, no skills, unless you were in that top 5 or so, in which case anything you needed to learn would happen in the next few months or so of varsity wrestling.

Same for football. Have everyone slam into everyone else, throw the ball while someone tried to tear them apart, run like crazy while being chased by the varsity wrestlers, have the ball slammed into you at full force while you were running. Again, no real skills etc. unless you somehow qualified.

Same for baseball. Every pitch was aimed for your head at 70 mph. Every bat was tossed at you. Every tag was a spike in the crotch. Again, the winners....

Now things are quite a bit softer. Everyone gets a trophy. Everyone has the ball held for them while they try to aim for it with a foam bat. People with skills are kicked off the team. I think you get the idea.

It will be interesting to find out in 20 years or so which approach worked best when we either have leagues of super players beating all the records, or the whole pro sports thing falls apart because no one can hit a moving ball.

Rainier Climbing Clothing

2009-07-21T15:11:00.005-06:00

Rainier is the big one of North American Mountaineering. Nearly every highly regarded climber in the US has cut their teeth on it. Has tested themselves first on Rainier. It's roughly 9,000' high. About half or more of that is on snow and ice, much of it glaciated. In addition to navigating crevasses, you have to cross really crappy rock and gravel bands in crampons (in the dark, uphill, with a headwind, in a blizzard as Grandpa always said about school).

Normally, you would have special equipment, either purchased or rented just for this climb. If you know yourself, and your equipment needs, and have committed to a future of doing mountaineering, considered by many to be merely insane or even socially detrimental, then purchase is a good option with many long term benefits. If you have any doubt at all, then you really should rent.

You can rent almost every single last bit of gear and clothing, including long underwear at one of the many REI's in the greater Seattle area (if you go to their website, store locator, and click on the little map icon for Washington, you can find their stores, then go from there to the Rent Gear page where you can get a list of items available at each store - the list sucks a bit, Mountaineering Gear is as close as you can get, and I never called one to find out what that means). Feathered Friends and Second Ascents may be good options as well. Alpine Ascents has their office in Seattle, but International Mountain Guides and Rainier Mountaineering Inc. have stores and rental offices in Ashford (the last small town before Paradise in Rainier National Park).

If you are a backcountry skier you probably have much of the required gear, and in fact, you might be able to make your AT boots work. I've seen many guides climb it in Scarpa Denali's. If you are a serious skier you might have some of the basics. If you aren't so serious about winter sports (or your idea of winter sports includes firearms and/or small gas motors), you'll probably need a lot of stuff.

From Liberty Ridge Rainier 2009

Starting from the inside and working out:

Undies: some people wear them and some don't - underwear by Patagonia, REI, Smartwool seem to be the best overall. Some of the sports underwear are meant for moisture transport while running, which you won't be doing. Those will get soggy and you'll lose heat too fast. Same for cotton, heavy wool, wool/poly blends, multi-layered, etc. Don't do it. You'll need one. You won't be changing.

Bra: IF you need one, again, be cautious of those that trap moisture because they're designed to have a constant 10 mph breeze as you run in them. One. No changing.

Base Layer: fancy word for Long Underwear. This is the root of your clothing system. Most manufacturers make three variations. Thin, Medium, Thick, sometimes with fancy names like Cap2, or Expedition, or 260g or whatever. Simple enough to figure out. You will need one for the top, and one for the bottom. I myself think even the thinnest wool from Smartwool is too thick and traps too much moisture for a multiday trip, but ymmv. Wool smells better overall after several days, but some of the others aren't too bad. Unfortunately they vary depending on your body chemistry and you don't know till you try. You won't be changing these either. Some people like turtlenecks, and some like zip mock turtles. Make sure the fly is useful for you - some are skimpy or in odd places, depending on your anatomy. If you're a girl who will be using a pee funnel, you might have to use men's bottoms.

Mid-layer Top: A second base layer, though it's not a base layer if something is under it? A mid-weight baselayer, expedition weight baselayer or very thin softshell or wind shirt are all common for this application. If you don't know, you may be happiest in a PolarPro fleece designed for running. My personal preference used to be a wind shirt but I've been using The North Face Apex Bionic softshell for almost a year now. It's thin, light, zips for ventilation, is about 80% wind and waterproof, and breathes better than most fleece imho. In mild weather I can wear it for my outer layer.

Softshell Top: Your main outerwear top. A mid-weight softshell like the Marmot Sharppoint, Mountain Hardwear Alchemy, or Arcteryx Gamma series. Abrasion resistance, breatheability, water resistance, wind resistance, and warmth are all features to keep in mind. The North Face and a few others also make good choices. Go try some on. Remember, you will be wearing this over everything above probably all the time, so make sure it is big enough and that you can move freely.

Softshell Bottom: Abrasion resistance, freedom of movement, warmth, water and wind resistance. You will be wearing this the whole time. I have a pair of Cloudveil ice climbing pants I wear a lot, a pair of Mountain Hardwear Syncro I wear sometimes, and a pair of TNF Apex Bionic Bibs (no longer made) that I absolutely love. Make sure the fly works for you with all the above on (and with a harness on if you can) and if you're a girl using a funnel. Some features that are love it or hate it, are moon drop seats, zippers that go from front to back, various ankle closures that can take the place of gaiters (if you don't know I won't be teaching you now - stick to gaiters if you're a beginner). Ski pants suck - the ankles are too big and you'll trip over them with your crampons. Crampon patches are normal on pants meant for this use - you WILL poke holes in your pants. It's a war wound. It shows you really do walk around in crampons. Yes, you paid $400 for your pants. Oh, well. Duct Tape.

Goretex Pants: This isn't the place for experimenting if you're a beginner. Goretex is the standard (but completely equivalent membranes can work too so long as they are as durable). It needs to go over everything above. You will most likely keep it in your pack the whole time and only put it on when the wind picks up or it starts snowing or raining bad. Hence, you will need to be able to put them on, with a harness, with crampons, in a windstorm/blizzard. Full length or 80% side zippers help. Make sure you can actually put them on in the store. I've seen lots of people show up and not be able to put their own pants on because they never did it and don't know the trick of lining up the zippers.

Goretex Jacket: See goretex note above. It needs to go over everything above. Some people also like them to go over their parka, see below. Keep that in mind when sizing. Since goretex is neither waterproof nor breathable (that's a little bit of a joke I picked up in Alaska) you want to make sure that your pit zips are good enough, and that you can operate them in a blizzard, etc. with mittens on. I have a jacket that has a hood that zips up into the collar. I should keep it there because it's annoying to me anyway. You probably don't want that, so make sure the hood is sufficient to cover your helmet and provide visibility. You'd be surprised at the expedition goretex out there that doesn't work right with helmets. Same for "Ski Jackets". You don't want a lot of extra crap, like pockets - you won't be using any pockets in a blizzard. Trust me. You also hope it never comes out of your pack.

Puffy Jacket: Your main survival outer layer. Down or synthetic? How thick? For Rainier, most people can make do with whatever, your life doesn't really depend on it like in Alaska. Patagonia DAS Parka, OR Chaos are great synthetic. The standard down jacket is the Mountain Hardwear Subzero Parka, but I think I'd rather have the Mont Bell down parka - better baffles and down. Lighter. You will pop this on and off at every rest, at camp, and as you near the summit. It will get a lot of wear and tear, wadding it up in your pack.

Gloves: Get a system unless you know yourself well enough. OR, MH, Black Diamond, all make good systems. A system is a liner and shell integrated so you can use any combination to make three separate gloves. Wear the liner in camp or when it's warm. Wear the outer when it's colder or windier and maybe wetter. Wear them both when it's colder and windier still. Most of these come with "moron straps" use them correctly. Ask someone (but not at an REI, they most likely don't know) how to use them to prevent glove loss. Some people like an extra liner pair - you can get something a bit thicker, or with a patch of rubber for better climbing ability, and make sure they also fit the outer shell if you like. You will most likely be doing a lot of equipment things with your hands, so a slippery palm/finger area sucks.

Mittens: The gear lists suggest a pair of very big and heavy mittens on the summit. I've never used them. Most people I know have never used them. But then divide the weight and price by 10 fingers. I've used heat packs before but didn't like them. Maybe I've never been high enough or cold enough when I've had them. Your call, but if it's your first time, do it just to be safe.

Socks: Sure, wear socks. What most experienced people I've talked to that were in love with their boots do is buy boots that fit. Then fill them with socks. Simple. But for the rest of us/you, get the thick expedition weight socks. Pile or loop, wool or wool blend, but not the ragg wool. Ragg wool will never dry out in your sleeping bag at night. Acrylic hunting socks don't work good either. Most ski socks will be too thin, and since they aren't meant to be walked in, might bunch up from friction and cause pain. You probably want to have at least two pair, so you can be drying one with body heat while the other is on your feet. Some people have a "sacred summit socks" pair that they only put on for summit day. For a three day trip that seems excessive.

Hats: Generally, a wool or wool blend hat that fits under your helmet is best. Some lists put in a separate balaclava. Synthetic balaclavas work good, but like socks, ragg wool is out. Some people bring just the hat and then a buff to double as the balaclava, but they're often not as wind resistant. I prefer a thinner lighter polyester hat and a buff, but that's just me. YMMV.

That's it for clothing. Really.

Rainier Beginner Logistics Guide

2009-07-16T19:26:00.004-06:00

Rainier is the classic test of North American Mountaineering. You need to do it before you go any further.

If you've never done it before, there are really only two standard routes. Disappointment Cleaver and Emmons Glacier. Emmons is longer, with more vertical on summit day, but not quite as steep. It's also a bit more remote and offers a better wilderness experience, since the Park Service keeps the number of overnight campers along the route fewer than along the DC route.

The DC route, being more popular (a few thousand people a year try it) is also better marked and maintained, often with all the crevasses and bridges over them very well wanded (the little 3' flags), and in those few spots where you go along or over rock there are sometimes fixed ropes. Sometimes even in a whiteout you can just stay in the trench that hundreds of feet made along the path in the previous 24 hours.

There are a few other seasonally "easy" routes, such as Gib Ledges and Ingraham Direct, both of which are in condition early in the season - April or May even, and then as quickly out of condition. If you are an experienced Ice or Steep Snow climber, the Kautz or Fuhrer Finger routes can be fun in May or June.

The route you select determines a lot. Emmons is entered from the White River entrance, and a long but pretty hike with not a great deal of serious steep vertical leads to Camp Shurman, at 9,500', where you'll find a relatively nice toilet, barrels to dump your blue bags (on Rainier, if you aren't using an authorized toilet, you have to do your more solid business into a blue plastic bag and haul it with you - it's not as hard as it sounds) and about 30 tent spaces relatively sheltered from the wind. From here on summit day, you'll ascend through the crevasses along a path called "The Corridor", pass the bergschrund (the large crevasse at the top of the glacier - sometimes amazingly deep and wide and far across with the narrowest and winding bridge across of firm snow) at around 13,000', then angle back to the summit, Columbia Crest, at 14,411'.

The DC route leaves from the Paradise Lodge parking lot at 5,500' and goes up to Camp Muir at 10,000', a steep climb in a short distance. From Camp Muir, on summit day, you climb up through Cathedral Gap to the Ingraham Glacier, over to Disappointment Cleaver (a large and crappy rock feature). Depending on the time of year, you would go up along the cleaver, or along one side and up to the Emmons Glacier for the hike to the volcano crater rim, where you finish by hiking about a half mile to the summit.

If you're going to camp anywhere on the mountain, you'll need a wilderness camping permit (specifying dates and campsites), available online, in the mail, or from a couple of the ranger stations. If you're going above either Muir or Shurman, you'll need a climbing permit (unlimited use for the year in which you buy it) available as above. Guiding companies normally take care of this for you (so it's only significant if you're not using one).

Important skills to have include walking comfortably in crampons. In the dark. On ice and snow. On crappy gravel mud and rock. If you're in really good shape and have good balance and coordination you can figure this out on the fly, but I've seen V4 climbers break down in tears at walking on 4th class terrain in crampons. Rope management is essential - part of the safety system is to keep the rope a certain level of tight. This keeps your falls below a Fall Factor 1. Way below. You have to walk the right speed to do this, while watching your footing, while keeping your ice axe in the right hand, pointing the right way, while breathing thin air. In the dark. Uphill in a headwind. Yeah.

Self-arrest is important as well. The ability to stop your own slide from a number of angles is helpful. Stopping a ropemate's fall or slide is normally done only one direction and on purpose - not as tough to learn.

Climbing a rope using a prusik knot ascension system is helpful, though with a guided group there will always be a few handy guides to haul you out. The myth is that you can't go anywhere on Rainier where you can throw a dead cat without hitting a guide. Keep that in mind - always bring a dead cat in case you fall into a crevasse.

Most guided groups will take time out either before or during the basecamp stay to give a quick course in these skills, but it's probably a good idea to pick up whatever you can however you can beforehand - you can't know too much unless you try to "share" it with someone who doesn't really want to know how smart you are.

As far as equipment, Wal-Mart is pretty much out. I've had some sad team-mates before who tried that route with potentially life-threatening results. You'll need special clothes, special boots, special equipment. Most of this stuff can be rented in Ashford Washington, where two of the three guide companies authorized to guide on Rainier keep their headquarters. Otherwise several good stores in Seattle rent as well.

If you balk at the price of the boots and gloves, remember to divide it by ten for your "dollars per toe" figure to compare it to the long-term cost of amputation. If you go to the guide company sites you'll find really good equipment lists based on the average climber. If you really know yourself at altitude in the cold, in a storm, then do your own thing, otherwise, sticking to the lists is the safest course of action.

If you're going with one of the guided groups, that's about it. If you're going up on your own (in which case you're obviously wasting your time reading this since it's way too basic for someone as cool as you) or with a friend or whatever, besides the above gear, you'll also need to consider food, tents, and cooking equipment and fuel, since the guide companies normally take care of that.

Anyway, that's a good first thought logistics guide for Rainier.

Harry Potter and Taekwondo

2009-07-16T10:01:00.003-06:00

Interesting combination.

A long time ago, I used to teach an obscure little martial art that no normal person was really very interested in, though I had a following of about a dozen devoted non-normal people back in the day in Kansas City. When I came to Utah the realities of owning a business meant I had to give that up, in case anyone is interested and meaning to ask (other than a few of the non-normal people I'm still in contact with that is).

Anyway, one oddity among potentially non-normal people who came to visit me to find out what I was made of, or how tough I was, or how skilled, or how smart or whatever, was that they would start ripping on Taekwondo and other 20th century martial arts.

1) it's not really a martial art
2) it's not authentic, but is rather made up in response to Karate, itself made up blah blah
3) they're just in it for the money
4) it's contest stuff and doesn't work

etc. etc. etc.

I never really wanted to argue any points that were in fact rather obvious, but I did say this:

"I respect Taekwondo immensely. They make tons of money. Have millions of fervent adherents. Are everywhere you look."

How can you argue with that?

It would be like ripping on Harry Potter, and you know what? I say the same thing.

Tons of money (for bookstore owners as well as whats'er'face).
Millions of readers.
Everywhere saturating society.

Anyway, all the respect in the world to all of them, Harry, Edward, Sookie, etc. etc.

Red Rock Draper Climbing Evening

2009-07-15T12:55:00.003-06:00

Last night we headed up after work to the Draper Red Rock to do some climbing. Angie took the Vaude pack she's planning on taking to Fuji, and I took mine as well. I wore my Keen hikers to test them out (have had them for 2 years but have only mowed the lawn in them - lol), and she took her La Sportiva trail shoes.

Dallin and Brennan wore backpacks with toys and snacks. Tan just wandered along picking leaves and smelling dusty flowers. It was pretty hot, so we had it all to ourselves for most of the evening.

Angie wasn't feeling like climbing from her various injuries, and none of the kids felt like climbing tonight, so I decided to get in some lead time.

I led the 5.6 on the far left "Baby Teeth", then the 5.7 next to it "Facial Fracture". I enjoyed both, and Angie said I looked good on my feet, much better than last year. While I rested up some I switched from my Acopa Aztecs to my La Sportiva Solutions I got a couple years ago and never quite fit into right until this past few months. My Miura VS have taught me a lot about fitting shoes, as well as some great advice from Adam at Mountainworks in Provo at the Quarry.

At that same time a family with kids about the same ages as ours showed up, so I gave them that section of wall so they could toprope their kids, and we moved over to the other section to the West.

I went up "Liken Z' Planus" which says 5.6 on the plaque, but Mountainproject.com has it at 5.7 by consensus. I have done it before, but not strict. This time I went straight up the hanger line, which gets a bit hairy at the last bolt before the huge mantle. I stemmed way out, with my toe on a really tiny edge, and my left hand on a 2-finger crimper, and my right on a slopey sidepull. I managed to stick it to get my right foot on a huge steep sloper, and then clip right at my chest. It was my scariest clip yet. Felt more like a couple 5.8 moves. I think if you go over to the left up the arete or to the right up the crack it's 5.7 or less.

I then mantled and decided that was the top - the last wandering bit of route shared with a few others is just 3rd/4th class and is really meaningless climbing. so I leaned over to the top of Shark Teeth and clipped that anchor.

Lowering sucked, since it was off-angle, but I clipped a draw on so I could follow the rope down, but had to clip to an anchor for a bit while Angie repositioned, since the other angle was pulling her downhill.

At the bottom I tinkered with the idea of doing Shark Teeth, a 5.6 next to it, but decided I was tired and another day. Later I discovered MP had it at 5.7+ and sucky, so probably for the best.

So overall, three good leads, a few scary moments, a bit of stress, and some cool moves. It's great to be on the sharp end again. There's nothing like looking down at the rope in your anchor 5' below you, and 5' below that sharp rocks, as you reach over your head for a small hold, and put your foot up by your navel on a little pocket of rock and stand up on it. Oh, yeah.

Liberty Ridge Epic Pictures up at Picasa

2009-07-01T11:45:00.003-06:00

Pictures Up Now Click Here

Got the pics up. Some are captioned - enough to help you figure out days/times etc.

It was so amazing and I'm still recovering. Not too bad. Numb toes, tingly fingers, eating like a pig and not gaining weight. Got below 190 lb (which is totally cool). Getting back into working out slowly - did cardio two days in a row now, but not strong enough feeling for weights yet.

Thanks Ann, Claudio for being great team mates. Thanks Jeff and Mark for being great guides. Thanks Eric and Josh for coming up to show us the way home at great risk to yourselves.

Thanks Angie for putting up with, supporting, and believing in me. Thanks George for managing this whole thing.

Liberty Ridge Update

2009-06-30T10:52:00.002-06:00

Guess I shouldn't have titled my last post "deadness" - too real.

Angie put the story up on her blog pretty accurately, so I guess I can just relax and not stress over typing it all up again.

It's pretty wild to be home, back at work, and getting used to being back in the world.

Claudio and I emailed and he said it's "surreal" to be back after going through that.

I'll see about getting pictures up later.

Liberty! or deadness

2009-06-19T15:47:00.002-06:00

woohoo!

got my pack packed last night for liberty. I have two different "concepts" going here.

1) the gear I prefer, or philosophy, or experienced
2) the gear on the list

I put together my primary, or compromise, kit, and it's in the duffle and the whole mess weighs 33 lb (everything except water, boots, and helmet). I also have emergency backup - in some cases warmer, in some cases lighter, in case I can "get away with it" or "didn't get away with it" in another duffle in case I have to switch stuff out (or can get away with switching stuff out).

Jeff Ward is a totally cool guide and I've been with him before when I did Kautz, also with IMG. I've had mostly good experiences with IMG (in Ouray you have to take one of their prefered buddy guides along for the ride, which can be odd at times). RMI has been mostly negative, but they do manage to drag a few thousand people a year up Rainier, so props for that. Mountain Madness has been excellent (for what I did). AAI has decent instruction. AMS has really good instruction.

Anyway, happy to be climbing with Jeff as leader and Mark Allen as the other guide. I think he was on Kautz as well. This is the hardest guided route on Rainier and is a test piece (a route that you do to find out where you stand as a legend in your own mind - a gateway to the next level so to speak). It's in the "50 North American Classics of Climbing" group.

Anyway, assuming I survive it (there will be three clients and two guides, and I've talked extensively with one of the clients over the past few months, the other one just barely signed up) I'll have a day of rest in Seattle with relatives, then off for a "honeymoon" weekend with Angie out rock climbing, rather than steep crappy ice snow and rock climbing.

The weather looks like it will be cold up high for a few days to make the snow solid, then warmer on summit day for an easier time (and lighter summit clothing).

More later...

Holy Smurf - More Momentum Climbing

2009-06-18T18:55:00.004-06:00

Today we went to Momentum again - last time before I leave for Rainier.

DW was there for Dal's climbing team practice, which for some unrealistic reason is on Thursday afternoon.

Anyway, when I first got there she was consoling Dal over his successful V0 climb, and she showed me her V3 she's working, and I tried the first couple moves on it, then tried the first couple moves on the evil blue V1 I just can't get the next move on. Well, I did get the next move, but with the wrong hand.

I went over then and tried the first few feet of a new orange 5.9 put up by RM, which of course means there is at least one 5.11 move, and sure enough, the first few feet were impossible, which I suppose makes his ego day complete.

I went around then and did a new 5.8 by "TN" whoever that is. Really awful sequencing, but I did do it. I then got on the standard blue 5.10A and it totally blew me away at the first move. Weird. After shaking it off I got on a SJ 5.10a orange and onsited it. Far out. Amazing. But then SJ really does know how to set routes, which unfortunately their primary routesetter is clueless about.

To wrap up I did the yellow 5.9 in the book corner by the cracks and just ran up it, so good enough.

What an amazing day. Can hardly wait for Leavenworth.

Climbing at Momentum in Sandy, June 16

2009-06-17T11:36:00.002-06:00

Still recovering from my heavy-duty workout yesterday (Monday), so I was planning on climbing slow and gentle. Also, getting ready for Liberty Ridge on Rainier next week, so have to keep my recovery ability in mind.

DW climbed the yellow 5.8 with the overhung arete start on the wall by the former cafe (now an empty future climbing museum er, junk room to help someone clean their garage). I decided to do it too, and did okay. D stopped by and said hi to us.

Can't remember the details of DW's climbing - like a handful of 10d's and 11's of various sorts, working them hard, and still getting over Teva (though Teva did help her bouldering a LOT - she was here Monday night working some V3's).

I did the green 8 on the curvy front wall. Again, not bad. I wanted to do a 10, but the one I wanted to try (the brown on the curvy front wall that kicked my butt before) was just busy tonight, so I got on the yellow 10b with pockets. I managed to get up halfway, doing a bad sequence and coming off, so I got back on and worked past that to the next sequence and came off, so I bailed - new project.

I got on the beige 9 to the left of the doorway in the kids wall, and managed to get to the 2nd to last move before coming off - so close, but again, new project. So I have a handful of uncompleted 9's to wrap up. Three that I remember now coming off at the last move or so. Endurance.

8's are fairly uncomplicated now, so that's progress anyway - last year I was happy to do half an 8 in one go without coming off or bailing in agony from my hands. lol.

Climbing at Momentum Indoor Rock Climbing Gym June 13

2009-06-13T19:14:00.002-06:00

We were going to go outside this morning and climb with Nathan up BCC, but the sky looked threatening and we didn't feel like risking the thunderstorms that have been a staple of Utah weather for the past 3 weeks.

We headed up to Momentum for their "5.14" event. On 6 13, but details aside, they were having a raffle, so we signed up for that, then ran over to REI for their Garage Sale - which overall was as lame as ever. The usual. Climbing shoes someone bought two years ago, wore for two years, then brought the shredded remains in so REI could give them a credit on this years model, then put them at the garage sale for $35. If you're going to pay that much for totally smurfed up shoes, you could get some new Madrock Shoes at their OUTLET. I have some I got there that are great for rain, mud, snow, ice, etc. And for $19 with free shipping, you really can't go wrong.

Anyway, when we got back to Momentum, we decided to get our climb on. DW did a couple of 5.10 that totally sucked. RM routes, of course.

One of the route setters, RM has like this weird trick move he does where he locks off with a backstep and front flag, only like really high and low. The backstep and flag are at the same level as his hips, as is the lock-off - totally odd looking, but then he reaches out and up with the inside shoulder and sets his 4' long arm on a hold that otherwise cannot be reached since there are no feet anywhere else. When asked about it his response is "if you get your feet high enough it's easy" and doh! if you're 6' 4" - and climb 12's. lol.

Anyway, for some odd reason this move goes into all his routes. Even the 5.6's (which because it requires a V2 bouldering technique is not really a 5.6 anymore, and while there might be some sick satisfyingly superior humor in watching everyone flail on 6's, the idea is to inspire new climbers, or older fatter climbers, to progress and grow, rather than smugly sandbag them and make dumb cracks about how easy it is for you). So poor DW had to endure that. (I've spoken to several of the pro climbers who are regulars at the gym and every single one said the RM routes are so odd and random they're not worth doing)

I was trying my new Miuras today, and was going to torment myself by working a 10, but she convinced me to go back to the classics. I got on the green comp 5.7 that most people hate, and did a decent job, purposefully choosing the smurfy feet whenever there was a choice, and felt good.

I got on the black 5.8 just down the wall a bit. Again, smurfy feet on purpose, and again, did good. I moved around to the kids side and did my classic 5.9 red SJ route. In general, SJ has a decent feel for setting an interesting route on-grade. A little bit of training for one or two techniques, and do-able by anyone who can climb that grade.

As an aside, one of their "future" route setters made some comment about how when you climb 5.12 you really have no idea what a 5.6 looks like anymore, so you really have no idea how to set a 5.6. Even Chris Sharma said in an interview that he'll go out and do a pretty 5.6 for the view and just enjoy it. Joe Kinder has told us the same thing while we talking to him once. To say you're better than they are, in that you don't even know what a 6 is anymore is just silly.

That might explain why some route setters can't add any new 6's (the last three attempts I know of were all graded at 5.8 by consensus), but really, SJ is there all the time puttering around, and they could pay him to actually set some decent routes, since he doesn't seem to have that problem. It really would be good for the gym. Seriously - think future business, not ego.

DW did some more cool route work, and I was impressed by how she's working through her recovery from Teva and being sick this past week.

I had just enough time to crank on one last route, and I went over to the blobby, slopey purple 5.9 that has eluded me for some time now (since the MORC/DORC contest). I was able to stick great, and managed, like the previous climbs, to keep my heart rate down and manage my pump, but when I got past my previous high point I popped off, since I didn't have a sequence down. I got back on after a minute rest and started lower, working past that sequence and topping out - for the first time ever. I think I can do it next time if I can remember the sequence correctly.

We headed home to rescue the sitter and cook some fish. See DW's blog -- link at right.

Indoor Climbing - Momentum June 11

2009-06-12T09:08:00.002-06:00

Got to Momentum about 5:00 but with the daycare issues going on there wasn't able to check the kids in till 5:20.

DW did some laps starting on a 5.8, but after a few she switched to a 5.9 on the same rope. Good job.

I started up a new 5.10 on the curved front wall, but the last 6 moves were evil slopers and I couldn't get my left hand to stick (still rehab'ing it) so I had to bail. Wish the route setters wouldn't do that. I could stick the first two, but then ran out of steam. Though it does feel good to almost send a 5.10.

DW did a 5.10C, red, blocky, on the narrow wall that used to have the speed route, that she described as "awesome" to her sometime climbing buddy Dan.

Then I decided to try a slopy 5.9 that had kicked my butt before - the off-white one on the tall end of the kid wall. Actually pulled it off. Good job me.

DW worked a 5.12A she'd worked before, but that one crux area still needs work. Other than that she did great on a really crimpy small route.

I tried a brown 5.9, slopy, near the off-white one above, that had kicked my butt before, and made it almost to the top when I finally couldn't hang on anymore - 3 more moves. Drat. Anyway, it feels good to almost make it.

DW worked a red 5.10C over the doorway to the maintenance room in the middle of the kid wall. The first few moves really suck and she really worked them hard.

I moved over to the brown 5.9 with small holds and bad feet a bit to the left of that. I did get above my high point, but managed to get my toe stuck between two holds and it pulled me off when I high-stepped with the other foot. That toe was still sore from bumping it when I came off the last 5.9, so I bailed.

All in all a good enough night - really sore, and I did manage to finish a route that I had failed on before. I'm well on my way to getting all the 9's done.

A couple weeks ago I started using my Lasportiva Solutions more, since the Acopa Aztecs have taught me to use my feet better. There was a shoe demo at the gym on Tuesday and I tried on some Miura VS in 41.5 - which I thought would be way too small but it works. I even hung around in them without climbing or tearing them off in agony - but of course, demo shoes are pretty beat up and stretched out - about what they would be after a few weeks of climbing. Synthetic leather doesn't stretch too much after all. DW says I have to buy a pair, since they seemed to work better than anything she's seen me in ever.

Teva Mountain Games 2009

2009-06-10T12:26:00.003-06:00

Citizens Bouldering Competition. Angie took 3rd place in her division. Far out.

Took some cool video, here's a sample from working Problem #7:

For the rest, go to: Tripeak Production Youtube Home Page

Enjoy!

Rock Climbing Update

2009-06-05T14:20:00.003-06:00

Done a few more sessions at Momentum.

Lapped that red 5.6(?) for 3 laps - not bad. I worked a few others, but didn't get far. I did some bouldering, and pieced together a V1 on the first cave inside the door, but didn't link it.

I got outside to meet CM from my earlier Rock Canyon The Wild adventure. Met him at Tinker Toys. I got there early and was going to Trad Rope Solo Tonka Truck 5.6 but he showed up and I let him lead Barbie 5.8. I tried Barbie on toprope but it kicked my butt. He then did K'NEX on toprope and I ran down the trail in my 35 lb pack (not bad at all) and went home, then on to Momentum (Wed night).

Had the horrible Forgot my Stuff Fiasco that night when I grabbed the wrong bag, but I did do an old 5.9 in much better style than ever before.

Thursday, I managed to send that purple 5.9+ and sent 3 V0's in a row, nonstop. I worked on the first few moves of my V1 project, but didn't link it yet. Devon watched as I did the 5.9+ and he and DW were talking and cheering me on, though I didn't hear anything other than "don't stop" when I was resting...

Recovery has been tough with the more harder workouts, but I'm looking forward to getting in shape for Liberty, and of course, for DW's entry in Teva.

Rock Climbing Digression

2009-05-27T14:38:00.005-06:00

Not done with the Alaska Blogging by a long shot, but wanted to get in some rock climbing sharing time here.

Since I got the Acopa Aztecs and they've been supporting my feet, I've been feeling pretty good and generally strong. I've been attempting the "mystery routes" the ones with no rating. I did a really cool yellow in the corner by the 5.9 dihedral and it didn't feel too bad. Turns out it's a 5.10.

I did that green maple route - had to work it, but made it bottom to top no hangs on the 2nd or 3rd try, and it's a 5.10c.

I did a nice new blue, and it's not rated yet, so dunno. I say it's a 5.9+ and Angie says it's a 10 from her climb of it - she did work harder than I've seen her work 9's so maybe.

I've been working that horrible purple 5.9 sloper-fest, but haven't made it past my sticking point yet, though I think I know how to now.

I've been working an evil 5.10a beige on the curvy front wall, and finally managed to stick the evil slanted slippery block that I keep getting stuck on, but haven't made it past it. Maybe next week.

I did a purple 5.9+ that works up the inverted section of the main wall, but hung once.

I did a new blue that DG says is 9+ or 10- and got to a really yucky sloper (on the left hand - doh! like all of them) after hanging twice. I restarted and ran up to it, having picked a better line based on my previous attempt. I think I can send it within the week.

I've also done a few of the new 8's and 7's, but nothing memorable.

There is a new yellow (oops!) red that I did, think it's a 5.6 but we'll see, and oddly enough, it has some cool pockets on it that I actually took as a lockoff. Best of all, it's like the first route in a long time I think I can lap on - so I'll see about doing that soon.

Still recovering from Alaska I think.

Got out to Rock Canyon and did a lead rope solo on Gazelle 5.5 in "The Wild" a relatively new moderate limestone area in Rock Canyon just outside Provo Utah.

First one of the year.

So, it's been a ton of fun working and sending some 10's

Alaska Day 1 part 2 (May 2, 2009) - Anchorage to Talkeetna

2009-05-19T09:56:00.002-06:00

Sean got up missing breakfast bar, so we went for a walk about a mile to the Tesoro quickmart where he got a carton of chocolate milk and I got a carton of orange juice. On the way back Troy met us along the road and took us back to the Microtel to get our crap and head over to his office where he had to repack after his recent Wilderness First Responder course.

Naz was getting in at 3ish, and would ride with Amy and Leah. In the meanwhile, we guys would head out as soon as Troy was done. On the way out of town we stopped at the local classic diner "Lucky Wishbone" and I had a halibut burger and onion rings - carbing up for the 12 day adventure.

We got into Talkeetna, where there was still snow on the streets and checked into Talkeetna Roadhouse, where I had a reservation for Sean and I, and Troy got a room for he and Amy. Naz and Leah are going to stay in the bunks.

Sean and I wandered the streets looking for a great view over the river while Troy napped in his room to catch up on his sleep.

Amy rolled into town with her crew and we all walked and talked around town getting to know one another, then had our first meal together in the Roadhouse.

(from left, Sean, Troy, Naz and Leah)

We went to sleep in the midnight-sun duskiness with a breakfast planned at the Roadhouse, then on to AMS to meet our Guides and get on the way.

Alaska Pics Little Switzerland Pika Glacier

2009-05-18T18:27:00.002-06:00

Got my pics up - before I put up the "diary" version, just though I'd put this out first.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Charles.Miske/AMSPIKAMay_2009#

I'll see about putting up my "diary" later when I catch up at work.

Alaska Day 1

2009-05-02T10:08:00.002-06:00

Made it here - flew in with Sean (who flew from TN) and arrived at midnight. The baggage carousel took almost 45 minutes to spit out our suitcases - guess the hamsters were tired.

Took the Holiday Inn Express shuttle to the Microtel where Sean had a room reserved. Checked in easy, went to bed around 1.

I got up at 7:30 and came down for a snack at the breakfast bar while Sean slept (He's about 5 hours behind here in Alaska - I'm only 2 - jetlag going back will suck best for him).

It was cool coming into Alaska along the fjiord-like coast and seeing the midnight sun on the edge of the Northern horizon. Gorgeous red and blue light in the sky - wonder if Rupert is the reason for the red?

Anyway, going to call my dearest DW and then see when Sean wakes and hook up with Troy for the trip to Talkeetna.

Maybe more later, maybe not til the 14th? Cya!

Lame Climbing and Alaska

2009-04-29T16:57:00.002-06:00

Climbed at Momentum Tuesday Eve. while Dal was in Basecamp (the Jr. Climbing Team). We went back over the comp routes again. First of all, they set that green Maple Route I redpointed as a 5.10c - totally the highest redpoint I've ever done and that feels cool.

Second, I managed to get up that purple sloper-from-smurf 5.9 up to the same spot again before my left hand gave up and told me to stop. Though this time I did it in much better speed and style. I was wearing the ancient Acopa JB Hightops I got off mountainproject a couple years ago. They felt slippery and didn't edge well. Probably too worn out. I switched to the new Aztecs and they felt much better.

I got on the old yellow 5.10a that I've been working for a year now. Got past all the lower sticking spots and actually only about 8 holds from the top when my left hand gave up and I popped off. I think I need to work my left hand for endurance more. Maybe lap some annoying 5.8 or 5.9 or just consecutive redpointing on the evil purple? Something.

But then we get to the whole Alaska thingy. I'm going to Alaska to do some advanced glacier training. Going up to Talkeetna and from there in a small plane to a remote glacier where I'll spend two weeks with our crew of 6 climbers and 2 guides. We'll be doing whatever is "in shape" to climb while learning advanced rope, avalanche and rescue skills. Should be fun.

So I've had to change my workouts to allow myself to recover enough (stopped doing weights) but increase my cardio for long days hiking with a pack. This time I didn't do any pack-weighted hiking or treadmills like I did for Kautz or Ecuador. We'll see how that plays out. On top of that, the minute I come home I have to get back into it because 5 weeks later I go to Mt. Rainier for the Liberty Ridge climb. Three clients and two guides. Hardest guided route on Rainier. Once you start you have to go over the top. There is no bailing. No way down. Lol. Tons of fun.

Since we have to go up and over (climb Liberty Ridge, descend Emmons Glacier) we have to carry everything on summit day (normally on a climb like this you would carry only emergency clothing and minimal food and water on summit day - maybe 10 lb), so we're limited to 30-ish pounds of our own stuff and about 15 pounds of group gear and food. I can go forever on the flats with that little load, so I just have to work on the whole 70-degree slope thing. About the same as on Iliniza Sur, but about 1,000' longer.

Anyway, DW did pretty decent on her climbs on Tue, but was also feeling a bit weaker than normal. Must be something going around ...

Hardcore Gym Climbing - Comp and Not

2009-04-27T14:19:00.002-06:00

Momentum had a Jr. Comp on Saturday the 25th of April, but they had a Citizen's Comp to Pre-Climb the routes on Friday Night. It was overall a real pain, and I managed to climb a 5.7 I didn't like and a 5.8 that I did. DW didn't really climb up to her full potential either.

We were going to climb outside as further training for me for Alaska, but it was pouring rain and then snow on Saturday, so after the trampoline adventure (another reason to be waiting on the roof with a shotgun on Christmas Eve) we decided to go to the gym and then out to eat.

We ended up going to Smith's first, because they had a bike sale on and there were a couple that Angie wanted to show me. Then we went to Momentum and got climbing. Angie climbed hard, starting a 5.13 just to see what it was like, plus a few good sends. I sent a green 5.10 (another one of the SoIll Maple Routes - seems like it's my thing) in only two tries - amazing. Then I did two attempts on a purple 9 that was really just awful slopers in bad sequences. I managed to get to the 2nd to last hold when my hands were done. So next time ---

We went to Red Robbin as our last meal out together as a couple before I go to Alaska for a couple weeks. This is going to be a rough week as I get stuff wrapped up at home and work so I'm ready to go. I'll be completely out of communications the whole two weeks - great Himalayan training I guess.

Draper Red Rock Climbing - 1st time 2009 season

2009-04-23T18:30:00.003-06:00

Wed. Apr. 22, 2009 - this evening we took the boys up to the Draper Red Rock for an "intro to outdoor climbing" since they've both been such gym rats this past year.

While I went up to the top of the 5.7 to set a toprope and rappel down, they bouldered in the little cave under the 9 and 10's.

We sent Brennan up first, and he had to be talked up pretty hard, but he made it and did a decent job. Then DW went up, and she did an excellent job considering she doesn't really like outdoor climbing that much. We sent Dal up next and though he's been toproping 8's in the gym for his Momentum Climbing Base Camp Jr. Climbing Team, he was a bit disconcerted to be climbing outside on sharp pointy rocks that can cause great physical damage, but he did really good in spite of his fear. Then I went up and boogied up the center of the route, and thought it was a lot easier than last time - guess it's the shoes? Then Bren took another shot at it and just flew up it - no fear at all this time.

I took Dal up on the hiking trail to the top with a sling and locker so I could show him how to clip in at the top and take down the toprope anchors. He needs to start young. He loved leaning over the edge and waving at his brother and mom. Then we hiked down, gathered everyone and left the rock to two guys who showed up to climb. Good job all!

DW should have the pics up on her site before long.

Amazingly Great "HEALTHY" Egg/Fish Salad

2009-04-22T20:54:00.002-06:00

I discovered, quite by accident, this amazingly good recipe:

In a Microwavable Plastic Container that seals tight, place:

1 chopped up hard-boiled egg
1 grilled just-done (not overcooked) pollack fillet
1/2 chopped avocado
2 diced oriental snow pea pods (yes two pods)
1 tbs Johnny's Jamaica-Me-Crazy sauce (though any dressing would do)
1 slice cheddar cheese diced

Put the lid on and shake till it's gloppy-gooey. If the pollack is not overcooked it will shred into flakes as you shake it.

YUM!

I mixed mine with a Spring Green Salad Mix and devoured it.

Lead Climbing Training

2009-04-16T11:04:00.003-06:00

Last night (Wednesday April 15) I took Mark, a neighbor, down to Momentum to teach him Lead Climbing. He asked me about it on Sunday at church and I said "sure, I can do that", since I have done it before (teach lead climbing that is).

We talked some about it, and I told him that lead climbing would quickly make his 5.6's outside feel like 10's and he was a bit skeptical of that.

I took him in and found a hanger about 2' up on the short wall of the middle island of routes and had him practice clipping with both hands from both sides of the quickdraw, then had him take the draw up to a hanger about 9' up and boulder up to it and practice clipping and unclipping from about chest height while hanging on holds, then I had him come down a bit so the draw was barely within reach and again, clip both hands both sides.

Then he felt strong and confident so he tied into the toprope and headed off up the black "yinyang" 5.10 there. At the first clip he couldn't do it so he switched to "rainbowing" the route (Angie's nickname for 'any color hold') and made it to the top. I had him clean on the way down and then gave him some helpful advice to help him do it more efficiently (particularly outside where efficiency and protecting yourself from potential injury or loss is very important). He said that leading was a whole different world and that it felt much harder because of the whole one-hand hanging one-hand busily doing a higher motor skills task. Well, not in those words anyway...

I switched him over to the green "Maple Route" a pebbly 5.10 that I really like. He did good enough and made it, but his main focus is bouldering (in which he says he's working V4's at The Quarry in Provo) so he isn't "efficient" - if you only have to go 12' or so, you can waste energy on all kinds of odd contortions, but on a rope, especially multi-pitch, you need to conserve energy and use better technique and I offered some advice on how to better switch hands and feet rather than making cool-looking crossovers and stepping through with full rotation.

I was trying out my ancient LaSportiva Tradmasters since I'll have to take them to Alaska with me next month. They want me to wear rock shoes I can wear wool socks in and I don't really want to buy new shoes, and these are very sturdy and solid outdoor trad shoes.

Click for Details or to Purchase at Moosejaw.com

I decided to get on the black 5.8 that Dallin is working, and it wasn't too bad, just odd without pointy toes. Mark said he'd never done a 5.8, which is too bad, since I think the best learning is from doing 5.8's. Even Jeff (gym owner and major FA/routesetter in Utah) says he's bailed from gnarly 5.8's outside. I explained that to Mark and sent him up the red blocky 5.8 on the other side of the Maple Route without Mock Leading (since it's wild enough without trying to lead it).

He did pretty good, got into some much better positions. I had noticed on the Maple Route that he was resistant to stemming and backstepping, so the ultimate route for that is the black 5.9 in the corner by the 5.9 layback crack. I had him Mock Lead (mock lead is when you're on toprope hauling a second rope and quickdraws up so you can clip and clean as you go up and down - the belayer would typically leave a small loop, about 4' of slack, so that you feel at-risk and understand better the feeling of leading) the route. He did good - really good. I gave him a bit of beta here and there "STEM LEFT" or "BACKSTEP REALLY HIGH RIGHT" and he had a few "gripped" moments, which was cool. When he came down he was pretty wasted.

I ran up the purple 5.7 on the short end of the overhanging wall of the middle island (next to the infamous yellow alien-planet 5.11+ that Angie onsited to cause a near fist-fight when someone dissed her as being unsuitable for climbing anything over 5.9 and she pointed out that was ironic coming from a "flailing gumbie" - LOL!

Feeling much more comfortable in old-school shoes and wool socks. Mark mentioned he used to climb in Madrock Phoenix - about the same deal and very popular shoes.

Click for Details or to Purchase at Altrec.com

I sent Mark up the mystery 5.x black route I onsited last week, and he didn't use the arete at all (like I did) and did a decent job. I told him then it was late (after 8 PM) and that I had stuff to pick up at REI so he could go boulder and I'd be back later. I told him he'd learned enough for one night and that we'd take him outside for a real lead on a 5.7 before he got psyched to take the lead test at Momentum - an overhanging 5.10a (but really juggy).

When I got back he was working a V3 with some friends and I gave them some cool beta and Mark just barely grabbed the top hold on his final try. We headed home then. Good night!

Buying a Condo in Keystone Colorado

2009-04-14T11:02:00.002-06:00

Economy barely affects vacation condo market in Summit County Keystone Colorado

"Based on several factors like a strong housing rebound in California and incen­tives from the economic stimulus package, Yun said the market is bottoming out. Sales volume and prices could climb 10 to 20 per­cent in the second half of this year"

Read the article for more information, but the firesale market seems to be drying up quickly.

Scarpa Mago Momentum Climbing

2009-04-10T13:52:00.005-06:00

Scarpa Mago Rock Climbing Shoe Extreme Sport Bouldering

Angie got a new pair of Scarpa Mago Rock Climbing Shoes on Wednesday night while we were climbing at the Quarry. We went to climb, but since it was "Mutual" and "Single Ward" night, every rope had a dozen people on it at once, mostly NOOB, so I was out. She bouldered hard, and sent most of the v0 and v1, even trying a few v2 and v3. Good stuff.

She was wasted and needed a break, and remembered that I had offered to buy her some bouldering shoes if she progressed up to v2, so I went down to see who was on duty. Christian. Far out. He's a great guy. He and Adam are pretty cool, and I go down and try on shoes with them for "fun" and they dig it.

So we went down, and dug through their stuff to find a shoe that would be good for inverted, pockets, steep, and had a good camber and pointy toe, while considering her marginal "Morton Toe". She tried quite a few, and ended up with the Mago, and the Testarossa as her two finalists.

LaSportiva Testarossa Rock Climbing Sport Bouldering Shoe

Christian had his hands full with a family from down by Nephi buying equipment for two older teenage boys, and we of course offered our two cents, and I believe helped him close the deal while still doing his best to serve his customers. In the meantime, Angie slipped into the bouldering room and compared the two shoes. The Mago won. (though I preferred the Testarossa, but it's way too much shoe for me at my humble level)

So on Thursday, during basecamp (kids climbing team) she did some toproping in them. She started on a new 5.8, but didn't like it at all so switched to a 9 that felt good to her. I went around to the other side of the wall and did a nice new 8 that I really liked. Onsited it. Then she did it and loved the pockets with her new pointy toed Magos. She got on then and tried a couple of evil 10's but didn't really feel like she was getting the best out of her shoes, threw them a few times (not at me this time) and I got on then and did the 9 she had finished first - again - onsited it (one of the few onsite 9's I've done).

I talked to her about some advice Adam gave me about cinching up the laces at the forefoot to draw the leather into the crease of the folded toes, so she broke down and tried it, and did the small brown 9 near the arete and then the yellow 10b. She did completely different footwork and took different holds, and it was great watching her step into the new world of high-end climbing these shoes would carry her into (and that's some mixed metaphors there).

She can hardly wait to get on it some more, so we're going to climb Saturday. I think the Pauls will be there - since they have a sitter and he at least is eager. Wonder if I can ever talk him into Rainier? Anyway, my wrist and fingers are sore, but hopefully I'll be back in shape for Saturday.

It was totally cool though to flash a 9.

Tiff & Tyler: Momentum Climbing Double Date

2009-03-31T19:40:00.001-06:00

Tiff & Tyler: Momentum

Tiffany put up some pictures from our "double date" climbing at Momentum last Friday night. We had tons of fun. There is even a pic montage of Tyler "cheating" the V5 - far out!

Angie WERC Promo Video

2009-03-30T11:15:00.002-06:00

Good Things Utah ran a contest for viewer-submitted about-town videos "Your Good Things" and we decided to enter with a Promo Video for WERC at Momentum Climbing. WERC = Women Experience Rock Climbing.

While we shot and edited this, the TV Station canceled the contest, presumably because we were the only entrants. We sent it in anyway and now a year later, here it is:

Remember if you're interested in WERC or Momentum, either go to Angie's blog or Momentumclimbing.com.

Friday Climbing Wtih Tif and Ty

2009-03-28T12:11:00.004-06:00

Last night we used our "bring a friend free" passes to take Tif and Ty to Momentum for a night of climbing. Ty had climbed before at the Quarry quite a bit, and was working V4's by the end of the year there, so this was all quite "simple" for him. Tif was wearing running shoes and going barefoot at times, which limited her a bit, but she did some great climbing and we hope she sticks with it and they can find a way to climb more together.

Ty did this wild trick that a guy there showed us for getting up a V5 about the same difficulty as a V1. Far out if you're tall. He also did a 5.10d on the wall by the future-museum-formerly-known-as-the-cafe, and with a little working out and practicing, he'll be doing great. Good job.

I managed to squeeze out sending that horrible red 8 with the blocky edgy holds on the short wall. Angie had beat the smurf out of herself bouldering on Thursday, so climbed somewhat conservatively, but still managed to get in some great V2 and V3 work. It's so cool that the folks back in the bouldering "cave" are taking her seriously now.

Anyway, we had tons of fun and hope to do it again.

(oh, forgot to mention in my post a couple days ago that I managed to send that black 9 that when I first did it seemed like a 10 to me, but a 9 to Jake, back in the corner by the first 9 crack and old speed routes)

Wed Climbing Lessons

2009-03-26T20:59:00.005-06:00

I decided to tag along for kicks, and since the only other option would be to set Anne free and make dinner for the kids and put them to bed. Besides, Dallin begged to spend the evening with Anne.

We started off getting them belay certified. There was S, who had climbed in WERC before, and her friend who took pictures. Her friend's daughter D, and S's friend from work, J. Neither J nor D had climbed before, and while J had a 6'5" height advantage, and seemed to have at least a minor amount of athleticism that helped him work his way up to 5.9 before he really started hanging, D was like the total opposite.

We gave them all lots of attention, and pointed out different ways to use the tools each had, and got them all into the bouldering room, where S and J both tried their hands at some V0's and even an evil V1 (the blue along the edge of the cafe roof that neither I nor DW have finished yet). In the middle of all this I onsited a V0 and Angie totally sent a V2 on her second try. Amazing girl. One of the other climbers there told her she should be working V3's and she did start one - great project as she lines up for the TEVA games in Vail this summer.

They did great, had a lot of fun, got some cool pictures, and hopefully will come back for more (pretty sure S will, not sure about J and D - but if they read this they need to keep it up - practice will get you to the top).

When all was said and done, it was a ton of fun for us too. Great experience and totally cool to give back to the NOOB community. We both ended up getting a great deal without smurfing off the gym management.

Anyway, just proud of my baby on her V2, and happy I did some bouldering for the 2nd time in this year of healing. I decided to take Thursday night off from Dallin's basecamp climbing team and heal my hands some. Instead I stayed home and did a workout while watching the other kids, so DW could boulder or help the team or treadmill or whatever.

It's kindof fun because I work out in the basement, and the kids came down to play with their Thomas Train Table together while I rode the elliptical. Afterward we went to Costco together to catch up on supplies and got home just as DW and Dal came home. They had a great time, which I'm sure she'll mention on her blog when she catches up.

Friday night we're going to climb with Tif and Ty. I'll keep you posted...

Miscellaneous Climbing Post

2009-03-25T14:42:00.003-06:00

Since the last post I've been knocking off some of the 8's and 9's that have been troubling me for a bit.

There is a grey nine that is a bit "short". I did it once with great struggle and effort and thought I was at the top. Then I discovered I was one move shy. A few days later I did it with that one more move, only to discover there is actually just one more, way off to the right. I haven't finished it yet.

I finished the grey 8 on the wall facing the former cafeteria, now unstarted climbing museum project (garage cleaning project for Jeff I guess). The last few holds suck, but I got past them with only minor struggle.

I finished the brown 9 next to that evil short grey one on the first go. Not bad.

I finished the grey 8 that DG set for the kids on the lead wall to the left of the window. It wasn't too bad and I imagine if I weren't so tired last time I could have done it in spite of the little flat pyramid holds that seem to abound on the left hand.

I onsighted the yellow 8 that was the speed route at the comp. Didn't really like it though. Too many "flat" holds at an angle that's tough on my left hand.

I started the orange 9 from the speed comp, but got stuck at the cup-handle jugs below the dyno. Couldn't see my feet. Oh well, maybe down the road.

I started the new dark brown 9 by the kids wall, but fell off about halfway and decided to bail - the holds are new and have fiberglass fibers sticking out - ouch. I'll try it again when they wear down a bit. The holds are small crimpy jugs and work good for two-finger pulling.

I might have tried a few 9+ and 10, but can't really remember anything memorable except I probably failed since I can't remember them.

Hands have been up and down a bit - I've experimented with working out and climbing, and have had some trouble recovering. I noticed recently that most of the 50+ crowd there has a ton of fun doing the 6's and 7's and making them look really tough. And actually, they're all lifers just keeping the climbing muscles going. I don't think too many people my age actually start climbing from scratch and keep with it for very long. It's really tough on the body. When you're young making your tendons strong is fairly easy and just takes time under tension with little regard for recovery. When you get old your tendons get tight and dry and it takes a lot of work.

Speaking of which...

We went to Jake's B'day party and Matt and Shannon showed up. We loaned them shoes and harnesses again and got them going on a few routes. They were working the grey 8 that DG set for the climbing camp kids when Matt stressed his pinky. It was swollen and hurt his forearm, so we got him some ice from the museum-formerly-known-as-cafeteria (thanks Ty!). Since the night was still young we took Shannon back to try her hand at bouldering.

She didn't mind falling off, which I think is half the battle. She did some great work on some V0's. Afterward she said that DW and I are great coaches. Thanks.

Last summer my son Tristan came down from MT to visit and we had a great time climbing, and I remember coaching him to do 10's in the gym and even lead a 7 outside in AF Canyon. I remember his great lead fall trying to lead a 10 on Draper Red Rock too. He did a soft-bounce foot-first deck in the little cave under the 9 next to the infamous rock of head-first death. That's where that gumby with the inside-out upside-down harness flipped over while his belayer had about 8' of loop hanging out. They resisted being rescued too. Oh, well....

Sometimes climbers can be so funny. They can accept a 19 year old who is 6'2" and 150 lb working 10's within a week as being a "climber" but resist a 30+ year old woman at 5'2" and of average build onsighting 11's after two years very hard work and training, and will actually pick a fight and almost coming to blows in front of everyone at the gym over it. And to think - she's starting to work 12's now.

In my case they generally don't think of me as a "climber" of rock, simply because though I'm working 9's and 10's, I am 50ish and haven't paid my dues like the other 50ish guys and gals at the gym, who are working 6's. ;)

But I do get some grudging respect from them over my glacier and high altitude exploits, though those are on semi-hold at the moment. I'm working up to doing Liberty Ridge on Rainier this summer, and that's going to be dang exciting sustained exposure on mixed terrain with no way out except up.

More later....

Back to Climbing Again...

2009-03-05T22:02:00.002-07:00

It's been interesting.

After getting my Aztecs I immediately felt a world better. I practically ran up the "Maple Canyon" green that they finally established at 5.10. Everyone I talked to said it's rated correctly, though I joke "if I can do it there's no way it's a 5.10".

After that I cooled my jets some and have been doing some of the more evil 5.7's and 8's - with a 6 or two tossed in for good measure.

With my arches fully supported I can actually stand on holds and use my leg power to raise myself, rather than my arms.

Toadally Kewl.

Tonight I did try a 5.10b(?) that didn't look too bad, but I fell of about 10' up on some really smurfy sloper. Smurf it - I decided to bail after that. Coincidentally to that DW was being poked by a somewhat "friend" and didn't know I fell till I hit the end of the rope - so good belay - it worked.

Then she took a turn and came off just above that spot - but did finally get up it - it was a Jeffries special - side to side slopers. Oh, well.

I redid an evil 5.8 then, and called it a night - good enough for me.

I've been working my legs to improve my strength in standing up on the holds, and my hands - after finally getting a handle on some of my tendon issues and working to improve it.

More tomorrow maybe at DW's amazing "Rick's in Mexico and I'm Lonely Party"...

DW Tag Q's

2009-03-03T14:36:00.003-07:00

Okay, fine - my "FIRST"s...

1. Who was your FIRST prom date?
Didn't go
2. Do you still talk to your FIRST love?
No
3. What was your FIRST alcoholic drink?
Strawberry Dacquari at my uncle's in Illinois at a family party - I think I was 12
4. What was your FIRST job?
Tie - Paper route for "the Milwaukee Journal", and kitchen help at an A&W in Lake Geneva WI - think I was 10
5. What was your FIRST car?
First one I owned that ran was an Isuzu Trooper in '85. Till then I used borrowed cars.
6. Who was the FIRST person to text you today?
DW
7. Who was the FIRST person you thought of this morning?
Me - I said "holy snot - you're still alive?"
8. Who was your FIRST grade teacher?
Miss Ring - and she was dang hot!
9. Where did you go on your FIRST ride on an airplane?
From Milwaukee to Chicago - I was on my way to San Antonio.
10. Who was your FIRST best friend & do you still talk?
Gosh, it was so long ago - maybe kindergarten, and no, I haven't talked to anyone from my pre-20's since the year it happened.
11. Where was your FIRST sleep over?
I don't remember ever having one, but I did go to camp a few times with the YMCA.
12. Who was the FIRST person you talked to today?
Angie (aside from Q 7 above)
13. Whose wedding were you in for the FIRST time?
My sister Cyndy AFAIK.
14. What was the FIRST thing you did this morning?
Checked to make sure I was intact and able to crawl out of bed without causing too much damage.
15. FIRST tattoo?
Lol, Never...
16. FIRST piercing?
Lol, Never...
17. FIRST foreign country you've been to?
Tijuana! While in San Diego.
18. FIRST movie your remember seeing?
Doctor NO - my dad took me when I was 6, then bought me all the toys from it. Far out.
19. When was your FIRST detention?
I was an odd child - I got like these perfect grades all the time so they just let me do whatever I wanted so long as not too many people got hurt.
20. What was the FIRST state you lived in?
Wisconsin, if you can call that living. Poverty, if you can call that a "state"

Six x Six Photo Tagging

2009-02-24T11:36:00.005-07:00

DW's Six by Six Image Tag Game

I was tagged.

Since I didn't have 6 folders on this pc, I just started clicking folders in order till I counted 6 and ended up with this one:

This is Super DW speed climbing in the comp. It really is the sixth image in the sixth folder.

Here's the "tag" details:
1.Go to my documents/pictures.
2. Go to my 6th file folder.
3. Go to my 6th picture.
4. Blog about it.
5. Tag 6 people to do the same.

Six People:

1) Obama (it _can't_ be some Illinois scandal)
2) Hilary (unless it's Janet)
3) GW (okay, shooting for a dog pic here)
4) Romney (unless it violates copyrights)
5) Huntsman (duty now for the future)
6) Buttars (take one for the team Buttars!)

Spring Corn - or why I quit skiing

2009-02-20T10:47:00.003-07:00

John was at Momentum last night, bouldering and hanging out with Nate and Alisha. He was wearing a t-shirt saying something about Spring Corn in the Morning, and we got to talking for a few seconds about that.

About 5 years ago I decided to try taking up skiing again. When I was 19, 20, and 21 I worked at some ski resorts in Wisconsin, skiing about 100 days a year. I was pretty obsessed with it, and could ski some simple black diamonds at western resorts, just like a midwesterner - you start at the top at 12,000' and rip down making little 20' turns for a few hundred feet before passing out.

I got into a family situation with no real resolution, so I ended up not skiing much, maybe 10 times in 15 years, and it was an odd situation, having to adapt to a different mindset - you know, the whole birds in the trees and pine cones crap.

So after passing through a few different situations, I finally ended up 3 years ago trying to really ski, and found out I had no idea how. I mean, on shaped skis you just lean left and right and down you go, right?

I managed to get in about a dozen days a year for 2 straight years, and near the middle of last year, I discovered it really wasn't much fun skiing at 10 degrees with 20 mph winds on ice. That's one of the major differences between 30 years ago and now - perpetual ice. I guess it crept up on everyone else, but I, being tossed into the middle of it, noticed real quick.

I guess on a snowboard, if you're totally lost and confused and don't belong on the hill, you sideslip down, leaving a patch of hard crusted snow about 6' wide and 50' long or longer. So skiing at places where lots of clueless boarders go you pass through some loose granular, then into ice, then back into the granular. So an unskilled "noob" like me has to ski one way for 6', then another way for 6' then back and forth all the way down. Every time I hit one of those skid marks my edges slide out from under me and I head for disaster, then recover just as I hit the loose pile of granular and my skis practically stop in their tracks, and then just as suddenly head back into the ice.

I tried skiing only in the granular, but that is tough to do when you're barely in control as it is. Worst of all, my poor mind is still 20 and it's very frustrating skiing like a drunk girl in the 70's, when you used to bomb down black diamonds. LOL

I could just ski at ALTA?

If I were to get better at all, I'd have to invest about 50 days a year into skiing for about 5 years, and that would be tough with any kind of work schedule. So I guess I'll see if I can do that as a retirement project - I could still have "fun" while cruising easy greens well into my 70's. At least "fun" is what I'll call it to avoid sour grapes (and refuse to admit the pine cone fan won).

In the meantime, I think I'll stick to that week or two of spring corn where there is no patch of ice after 10AM or so when the sun hits it.

Training For Mexico

2009-02-10T21:15:00.001-07:00

That's about all I'm doing right now. A little bit of climbing when I can. A bit of ice climbing here and there. I'll let you know more later about all this as it happens. Just an update in case anyone is interested.

More Ouray Ice Climbing February 2009

2009-02-06T11:54:00.002-07:00

In the "Five Fingers" area of Ouray Ice Park, Nate works a WI5 pillar:

John working the short pillar climber's right of that route:

Bottom right is top of ramp I used to exit

None of me btw. I was working the camera on this trip.

Ouray Ice Climb, Sunday February 1 2009

2009-02-05T14:40:00.005-07:00

Got up for an earlier start. Not sure what's up with the Victorian Inn. Lady claims she's the new owner but seems like she's trying to run it into the ground. Breakfast set to start when most good climbers will already be setting up their routes, letting everything run out and then quietly asking if anyone is interested in more before putting dishes away. Hopefully she'll figure it out and start having breakfast at a decent time and provide at least the same quantity and quality of food as the other places in town and possibly save the Vic. Being at the foot of the trail isn't enough anymore in this economy when there are two or three others right there for almost exactly the same price, and much newer.

Anyway, enough rant.

Met Nate and John at the 2nd lot and we headed out for 5 Fingers Area, though Nate and I were both feeling pretty knackered and wanted to just lap some WI3 for a warmup. John said the bottom of this route (1st chain at bottom of 5 Fingers) was pretty mellow, and we could work our way out over a short (20' or so) WI5 section. Pretty candlesticked, new crunchy chandelier ice. Yuck.

Shelf lower right, leads to ramp and crack mentioned below

Nate did pretty good, and John did great, but I decided to make the bottom into WI4+ and wore myself out, and I pumped out on the short section of 5, and ended up downclimbing to go around onto the face, and pumped out worse there - fell off and swung good for some great bruised shins and cut lip. Blood everywhere!

I was on a autoblock belay and was going to have Nate lower me to a little shelf at the bottom of the icicle so he could switch me to regular belay and lower me (much less hassle). While standing on the ramp, looking down 70' to the ground below along a mixed WI2/WI3 ramp, and then up to the left along the 2' wide ramp heading up to what looked like a 5.4 exit crack to the plateau above, I got an insane flash of insight.

I untied, then walked up in crampons to the crack. A bit more exposure than I liked. More like 5.8, but at the roof it was only about 15' of bouldering, so I tried it. Decided I didn't like it in crampons and tools, so I took them off and harnessed them. Then tried it. About that time Nate was looking for me, having pulled up the empty rope and freaking. He passed a rope down to me and that made it much nicer with a belay. Thanks John and Nate.

That pretty much did me in, so I wiped up my blood and wrapped it up for the day.

Ouray Ice Climb Saturday Jan 31

2009-01-31T20:00:00.006-07:00

This morning I called Nathan and set up a meet by South Park, but I somehow managed to beat them there and found it packed, with the river high enough there was no belay spots anyway.

We ended up down in School Room, where John remembered seeing an open anchor - #2. We hiked back down and set up an anchor there, with Nate and I walking down the ladder, which has a lot less ice on it this year than last, and John rapping in.

Nate working the overhung, melted-wax, airy ice over the cave by anchor 2 in School Room (forgot to turn it - lol).

The ice on this area was wild, with lots of hollowed out pockets between melted-wax consistency ice - an M6 and a few WI4's. Even though it hung over a bit with little roofs, it wasn't too bad.

Self-Portrait from above New Funtier (the walk-in is washed out and you have to rap in).

I climbed 4 routes, and took pictures with John's camera - the battery on my Olympus died today, and I left the Canon in the room, so didn't get too many of my own. These are from the Oly before it died. John took some pics and I managed to get them on a thumb drive, but I don't want to abuse the internet here too bad, so I'll post them later from home.

So far fun fun fun. I'm holding out good, though I did fall off the last route I climbed while at the crux on the roof - my left hand totally pumped out. Oh, well, need to work endurance on that one for sure.

Hello from Ouray!

2009-01-30T22:39:00.002-07:00

Drove down at 4PM pretty much nonstop. Saw some radical gnarly cave-type ice on the way, and the Dirtcicle is in for sure.

Tristan texted me some from Montana, and that was cool. Listened to some Spanish Audio Book and talked to Angie after her great night climbing with friends. Stopped at City Market in Montrose and got a few turkey subs for the next few days and a jug of orange juice - my favorite travel drink.

Staying at the Ouray Victorian Inn - my favorite place in town right at the foot of the trailhead to the Ice Park. Great. Can hardly wait to hook up with Nate and John tomorrow.

Off to bed now!

Speed Climbing Training

2009-01-29T22:34:00.002-07:00

Tonight after my massive treadmill workout (getting ready for Mexico?) I belayed Angie while Dallin climbed at Momentum Climbing Basecamp - which is essentially the Junior Climbing Team. He's really been enjoying it and has made a lot of progress. The traversing games I made him play on the kids bouldering wall have really given him an edge, and he's growing more and more comfortable on the rope every day.

Anyway, Angie wanted to do some training for Speed Climbing, so I put together some drills based on various climb better books (I'll put a list up sometime next week - max'ed out for time this week) and some of the moves the 8-second people made.

I beat the heck out of her, having her do about 12 laps on two different 5.6's, then she did two laps on the yellow comp route rated 5.8. It was great and she loved it and has a better idea now what she can improve on.

I seriously think that if she keeps this up once a week for the next year she can get dang close to 10 seconds.

Time will tell....

For me, then when she was done I decided to test my new tape concept - different from the old one but just about as supportive without being quite so restrictive.

I got on the blue 5.7 (that used to be a 5.6 back when I was lapping 5.6's) and did it, not too bad, decent on my feet, not so much on my hands, though I tried to keep my ring fingers up off the holds some. Then I got right back on to do a beige mystery route (different from the one that blew out my hand a month ago). I put a bit more weight on my hands, but didn't do quite so good on my feet, though I did pull off a toe hook on the arete. But I did it, that's the most important. I'd say it's a 5.7, but I might be a bit low, since it has a few tiny holds if you're too short to reach the juggier ones.

And that was our fun night of climbing.

All the way up to 5.6 Indoor Climbing

2009-01-28T09:09:00.002-07:00

Been a month now of healing for my poor left hand. Not sure if I mentioned it here or not, but for a little while I was working some great 5.10's at Momentum Climbing in Sandy, Utah. I had made it up two, but had hung on the rope a bit, so I wanted to get them done in one go. As part of that I was climbing some 5.9's (one of which I could nearly speed climb) and the mystery routes.

At Momentum one of the guys who puts up new routes, the routesetter, would leave the tag blank for a few days till general climbing consencus would determine the grade. I liked to give it a shot so I could put in my own $.02 worth, since I am like the 5.8 master.

My own system (fwiw):
5.5 or under = up in one go, not much thinking or moving around
5.6 = up in one go, a bit of thinking and moving
5.7 = one crux that I have to think around
5.8 = about 25' up I don't like it a lot
5.9 = about 15' up I don't like it much
5.10 = about 10' up I don't want to finish
5.11 = about 6-8' up I bail
5.12 + = I look at the little crimps and off-angle slopers and don't even think about going up

So far this system has been pretty much right on at Momentum anyway.

Anyway, about a month ago I was moving some stuff at work and in the car and it really stressed out my left ring finger. That night I got on a new beige route, that from the looks would go at around 5.9. I reached up with my left hand and touched the hold and "boing" my left arm sortof twitched and wouldn't hang on. I tried it again and my fingers were limp feeling. I quit and just belayed the rest of the night.

I was Angie's belay slave for a month. Not even ice climbing this year so far. I finally figured I could squeeze stuff lightly the other day and for the past week have been doing a light-duty Power Web Hand Exerciser workout for both hands. 100 reps of open-hand squeeze and 100 reps of narrow-hand extension both sides. This is a great device for hand workouts. Get one.

Anyway, so last night I decided to try it. I got on a yellow mystery route that I had climbed once before and would put at around 5.5 (didn't read the tag to see if they rated it yet) on the short wall on the north side of the center section of the gym and sent it. I kept the pressure light on my hands as much as possible and only took nice jugs with positive edges (as opposed to the juggy round holds that have a lip around 4" in diameter that fill your hands and keep them fairly open). Angie said I had good footwork and stayed on my feet more than usual, which is probably because I didn't want to put too much pressure on my poor ring finger joints. (I'm normally the king of overgrippers). It worked, and now today after a couple of rowing machine workouts with lots of "pulling" on my fingers, I'm still okay.

Hope that means I can slowly get back into it. Slowly being the key word here. I think last time I took time off to heal I pushed too hard on it when I got back into it. I'll see about staying at 5.6 or so for a month, only a few routes per day and see what happens. Thanks for the support of those who have shown it.

High Altitude Mountaineering Quote of the Week

2009-01-23T12:12:00.005-07:00

On my Amazon Christmas wish list, I had the following listed:

The other side of Everest, by Matt Dickinson, set in the 1996 climbing season - the disastrous one that made Krakauer and Brashears famous. Unknown to most people, the storm also fatally affected the North Side.

From base camp on the North Side of Everest, Dickinson directed a video shoot for British TV of British Climber/Actor Brian Blessed, who previously was filmed by David Brashears on Everest.

Anyway, commenting on the conversations among old pros at base camp, Matt says:

"...spent long hours swapping news of who had climbed what, by which route, and who had died since they last met.
...these high-altitude mountaineers discuss avalanches, falls, and ferocious storms in the same matter-of-fact way that normal mortals discuss the football results. A death here. A camp obliterated there. Fatalities are reported with the same sense of inevitability that casualties are reported from the front line of a war, the news digested with the barest nod of the head, or a raised eyebrow.
Inside they must be wondering when their turn will come."

I was reading that and thinking of all the people I've talked to about climbing high, on glaciers, in ice and snow and mist and crappy rock. Most look at me like I'm either a hero or insane or both. I do something they may dream about but not realize what it really means.

I tell them about falling into several crevasses, and how it's not a big deal. About trusting your rope mates, or if you are solo, yourself and destiny. About climbing something in the dark, then seeing it in daylight and being surprised you are alive. Hearing some people describe the same route you "just walked up" with terror shaking their voice. About lightning buzzing in the air, and cracking a rock into gravel not 50 meters from your feet. About the mist lifting and seeing 200 meters down a crumbling, overhanging slope just a meter to your side. About a man dieing 150 meters from you in seracs on a Cascade peak.

Some get a little glow of adventure lighting their eyes, but then spouse, job, children work their way to the front of their vision and the glow dims, perhaps lit at night in dreams in a quiet spot where no one else can see their secret wish.

Angie's 123 Amazing Diet Plan

2009-01-22T15:35:00.002-07:00

Well, it has helped her a great deal to lose an amazing amount of weight while staying healthy and growing more fit.

Rock climbing is to blame to some extent, but you need fuel, and starving yourself near unto death isn't going to cut it.

The plan works because you're getting plenty of macronutrients spaced out over a 4 day period, and it's been proven time and again that despite any food pyramid schemes that your body will store and process macronutrients as they come, and you don't have to eat them all in the same bowl.

Day 1:

5 meals of white meat and white fish with veggies, and over the day 1/2 cup starch (rice or grain or yam) and 1 plain salad (oil and vinegar okay).

Day 2:

All the fatty meat you want. Over the course of the day 1 plain salad.

Day 3:

6 meals of white meat, medium fat meat (salmon, halibut, dry pork, 99% fat-free beef), veggies, yams, dry salad and over the course of the day, one official 1 oz serving size of a whole grain cereal.

Rotation:

The recommended rotation is:

1 2 1 3 1 2 1 3 etc. ad infinitum

You can switch it around a bit to force a day 3 when you have to go out to eat with family or other occasions.

If you need a more effective quick loss, it's better to double up your day 1's:

112113112113

though Angie says this is dang tough.

Weight loss of 25 pounds or more in a year is not totally out of the question - more if you adjust your workout to suit this type of diet.

This is a simple adaptation of a type of carb-cycling diet done by Professional Natural Bodybuilders (this means no illegal drugs to make diet and exercise more effective - lol).

Anyway, hope that helps someone - I know a few of her friends have asked simple questions about it, so I decided to just post it once and call it good.

Great Diet Idea - Simple Lunch Casserole

2009-01-21T13:11:00.002-07:00

Eating for weight loss can be a real drag sometimes. Especially if you're going the "whole healthy foods" route. Since losing 35 pounds in the last two years, I've learned to eat this way much more happily.

Here's one of my best lunch at work selections:

Preliminary Work:

1) get a "george foreman" type grill. We use a Cuisinart model.

2) go to Costco or Sam's or your own personal preference (or even Walmart or Smith's - they all have much of the same stuff) and get some bags of easy to prepare and store frozen food.

My favorites:

· Wild Alaska Salmon and Salmon Patties (avoid Chile or Atlantic)
· Mahi Mahi and Tilapia fillets
· Unbreaded Chicken Breast "tenders" or strips
· Frozen peas and corn
· Large Tub of Low-fat Cottage Cheese
· Large container of salsa

3) get some microwave containers - we like the ones that come free with sliced turkey - essentially the Glad reusable disposable thin containers.

Prepare ahead:

1) Turn on the "george" to medium for chicken or low for fish. Cook til just barely done - if you cook it too long it will be dry. I like to spray the grill surface for fish. Keep rotating meat through the "george" till you have about a weeks worth.
2) Cool, then dice the meat into 3/8" or so cubes. This makes eating much easier.
3) Lay out the microwave containers and put about an inch of meat in the bottom of each one.
4) Put about a tablespoon of salsa in each container
5) Put about 1/2 cup veggie in each container
6) Put about 1/3 cup cottage cheese in each container
7) Pop the lids on, stack, and refrigerate.

Voile! You have your food for the week all premade. Just grab one as you leave in the morning, put it in the fridge at work, then nuke it for 90 seconds with the lid loose, stir, then 90 more seconds and it's done.

In addition to this, drink one or two protein shakes. My favorite is BSN Syntha 6 protein. It tastes and mixes great. If you get it from Amazon, you get the best price I've found on the net, you can get free shipping, and if you "Subscribe and Save" you get even more of a discount (note: the list on that link has some from Amazon, some from outside vendors with outrageous shipping, and some from outside vendors storing their product in an Amazon warehouse, so you get a good price and decent shipping, just can't "Subscribe and Save").

Remember, eating a reasonable amount of good healthy balanced food is much better for you than a fad diet. It might take longer, but it's easier to keep it off afterward.

Utah Snowshoe Hiking Adventure

2009-01-21T09:54:00.002-07:00

Snowshoeing is a growing winter sport, especially in Utah along the Wasatch. Snowshoeing is overall cheaper and easier than skiing or snowboarding. You can enjoy it as a family without a huge expenditure in time or money. The learning curve is short and quick. If you can walk you can figure out how to snowshoe.

1) get some snowshoes. The smallest you can get away with are the easiest to deal with.

Some simple facts:

You will want more surface area if:

· you are in loose powder type snow
· you are heavier (include weight of pack)

You will want less surface area if:

· you are mostly on groomed areas, like roads and snowmobile tracks
· you are smaller or lighter than average
· you are "running" on snowshoes

You will want narrower snowshoes if:

· you are hiking in rough country or between trees

You will want "crampons" or metal rails if:

· you will be walking on steeper icy terrain

2) get some optional trekking poles:

· Trekking poles are optional.
· I actually only carry one and switch hands
· try not to support yourself on them - use them only for balance
· in snow you will not need "shock absorbing" poles

3) You will need a place to go

If you live in Utah there are hundreds of places to go. You can probably think of them right now with little effort. One of my favorite places is up Provo Canyon, between Orem and Provo in Utah County. At the Heber Railroad turnaround in Vivian Park turn South and follow the road to the fork where the sign says "end state maintenance" and go right. Park in the lot above the building. There are miles of trails and plenty of opportunities to bushwack.

Enjoy.

Snowshoes 4 Lunch

2009-01-20T14:10:00.002-07:00

Today we were testing out a new sitter, so DW took the morning to do some much-needed grocery shopping, and then came down to get me, and we piled into the yellow beast and headed up Provo Canyon to snowshoe.

We saw a lady coming down the trail rather quickly on skis and that she was "chasing" a dog. At the bottom the dog stopped to say hi, and it turns out that the dog bowl of water was frozen, so we gave them some of ours (had a gallon jug in the front seat).

We headed up the trail at a rather brisk pace, and kept it pretty steady for about 35 minutes, then headed back down. All the while, DW is doing various gear education things for Rainier - how to adjust for heat and cold, how to stay dry at the base layer, how to stash and store gear, how to walk in snow. All the good stuff.

Anyway, when we got to the car it turns out she'd left her hat up the trail in a bad gear stash situation, so I ran up the trail in my boots (the snow was pretty hard, and only a little slippery) about halfway and got the hat.

Back at work it's the same old hassle, but it was a fun trip on a beautiful day.

Climbing Misery

2009-01-18T18:49:00.002-07:00

What a month I'm having! (think Dr. Kornbluth on "Splash")

When I was climbing two weeks ago, I had gotten to the amazing point of being able to onsite most 5.8 and a handful of 5.9. I was working a few 5.9, and even a couple of 5.10. I managed to finish a couple of 5.10, but had to hang a few times. It was pretty cool, and outside the gym I was working my grip trying to bring it back up to where it should be.

I was also doing "mystery" routes - new routes not yet rated. One was a blobby looking route I'd put around 5.9 if I had to rate it just by sight. I reached up with my left hand and immediately let go. It hurt. No noise or popping, just hurt.

I haven't gotten back into climbing at all (though I have tested a few holds to see what it was like - and it still sucks). I've even had to cancel a few ice climbing dates. That really sucks since there are only a few weeks of ice climbing left.

In addition to that is the stress of starting a new sitter. But Angie will be climbing in Nationals again this year, this weekend (January 24 & 25) so it's been decent for her training for me to just be a belay slave. Though it's very frustrating for me to not be able to climb.

In the meantime, I've been working on logistics for Aconcagua, and getting to think that maybe going back to the Orizaba plan would be better. Especially since I got the annual Mexico flight sale email and it's even better than last year. I might even be able to get in both Orizaba and Ixtaccihuatl since I'll have a few more days this year.

Anyway, haven't posted a climbing report in a while, so thought I'd just quick catch up. Thanks.

SlideShow@home - Ecuador Volcano Climbing

2009-01-13T22:12:00.004-07:00

One of our neighbors missed the slideshow at Momentum, so we decided to rerun it for them, and anyone else who missed it. We did it Monday January 12 2009 at 7:00 PM. I set up the tv with my laptop and ran the little trailer I created out of three videos I cranked out in Adobe.

That's the HERA Climb4Life teaser.

And that's the Danielle Children's Fund teaser.

I ran that and a small loop of other smaller things while waiting for everyone to be ready.

I played my CD of Incan music I bought in Ecuador, but by the time the kids all arrived (I think there were about 20 people crammed into our little living room) it was too noisy, so I stopped it - no one could hear it anyway.

I started up, and right away had questions - much livelier crowd than at Momentum last time.

One of my favorite (if I must say so myself) slides was the flight to Ecuador, inspired by Mythbusters and Lonely Planet.

We got it over, all 400 or so slides, around 8:15, then quick had to eat our potluck snacks, answer more questions, then everyone hit the road. Surprisingly enough (sorry if that sounds rude) our house was cleaner than when we started. Thanks all!

In the middle of the end, when a few people were feeling inspired and itching to get out and fall in a crevasse themselves, to see if it really is as wild as I described, I offered to take anyone who wants up Rainier. Wonder if there are any serious bites on that one?

I'll be heading up the last week of June and doing Liberty Ridge, and if I survive that, I'll be coming down (there is no way off Liberty Ridge - once you start you are committed [and probably should be] and have to go up and over, coming down the Emmons Glacier route), spending a night in Ashford to recover and get a shower and change of clothing, then take DW up the Disappointment Cleaver route on a 2-day. We'll spend the night at Camp Muir (hopefully staying in the hut to lighten our load), then if the weather allows, take off at 1:00 AM to hit the summit around 7:00 AM. If bad weather, spend a day doing glacier training and try again next day. It's the "trade route" that IMG, RMI and AAI use to haul their inexperienced clients up after a day of training, and aside from my rescue training, there will be guides all over the route who are compelled by National Park regulation to assist anyone in trouble. They actually fantasize about that. Really.

Anyway, rest assured, I'm serious if anyone who was at the slideshow is interested, and if they want some training guidelines, I'm happy to post them.

Thanks again for listening to me ramble about Ecuador and my experiences there.

Slide Show Results

2009-01-06T13:33:00.002-07:00

The slide show went great. We started setting up at around 8:30. I had gone out to the car to bring the projector in, since I thought letting the bulb come to room temp a while beforehand would be "safer".

When I went out at 8:30 to get the screen and speakers I got covered with snow, thanks to the quickly-falling snow from the storm that night.

I got it set up, plugged in my Tascam 122 USB Audio Interface mixer to amplify the AKG Dynamic Cardiod Microphone and push the sound from the pc to the Behringer Digital Studio Monitor Speakers, which I stacked under the table.

I had created a looping slideshow in
Adobe After Effects CS3 Professional for Windows
that I ran at the beginning to warm up the lamp and adjust the screen. It showed the charities, the guides, Angie, and was a bunch of fun to make - I may youtube it later.

I started the slideshow about 10 minutes late, due to the weather and the University of Utah game on TV. Right up front was another animated movie - like from Lonely Planet, showing me flying to Quito like a head from Mythbusters.

I had split the slideshow up into three segments, and it played out for about 45 minutes, pretty much as planned. Then we had some questions...I remember a couple.

1) Why do you start hiking in the dark (like midnight)?

a: because in an Alpine setting, high glaciated terrain, you have to consider the effects of the sun and increasing warmth on the glacier or snowpack - whether it will turn to mush and be hard to walk on, or just affect the layers in the snowpack and increase the chances of avalanche hazard, both in where you descend, and the snow above you.

2) What's the hardest thing you've climbed?

a: (I waffled for a bit, then DW said "Kautz") Um, Kautz, on Rainier - it was a great epic, involving over 20 hours of climbing, much of it in the dark, on about 4 pitches of AI3 ice.

3) What's next?

a: Scheduled - Rainier Liberty Ridge in June, then immediately afterward taking Angie up the Disappointment Cleaver Route on Rainier.
Tentative - solo Aconcagua via Routa Normale

I also mentioned that I would love to go back to Ecuador to visit with the schools associated with Danielle Childrens Fund dot org (put the words together and visit - they don't like direct links for some reason) and teach English for a month or two. Yeah, that would be a cool thing to do when I retire.

Slideshow at Momentum - High Altitude Ecuador Climbing

2009-01-01T14:18:00.001-07:00

That's a shot of the poster for my slide show at Momentum Climbing in Sandy, Utah, Friday, January 2nd, 2009 at 9:00 PM. "Thumbs Up - High Altitude Ecuadorian Climbing"

The slide show will cover my trip to Ecuador in November 2008 during which I climbed Guagua Pichincha, Iliniza Norte and Iliniza Sur and attempted Antisana. All but Pichincha are over 5,000 meters - high altitude indeed. Ecuador has 10 peaks over 5,000 meters.

This slide show will be about 40 minutes long, give or take, includes over 300 slides, many of cultural interest about Ecuador, the people and history.

We will be taking donations for Hera Climb4life (Ovarian Cancer) and Daniellechildrensfund .org - helping displaced children in Ecuador and Nepal. 100% of donations will be forwarded to the respective charity.

Please come and support Momentum Climbing by attending and filling the cafe, and buying a drink, either from the cooler, from the smoothy or Italian soda selection, or the hot drinks, including hot chocolate and hot cider.

I'm hoping you will have a good time.

Happy Birthday to my Princess

2008-12-18T11:36:00.003-07:00

Today is Angie's Birthday and I was looking for some cute memory of her to post here. Found this, from the Polish Festival in Milwaukee Wisconsin.
Aren't my two Polish Princesses darling?

Come to Momentum on Friday, Dec. 19 to enjoy climbing and a really cool cake. See her blog for details.

Click Here for Angie's Blog

Error in a previous link

2008-12-07T18:37:00.002-07:00

Lol, checking my stats report I noticed a bad link for Momentum Climbing. I found and fixed it.

Should be: http://www.momentumclimbing.com/

Sorry about that...

FIrst Lead Rope Solo - Saturday December 6, 2008

2008-12-06T12:24:00.004-07:00

Draper Red Rock, Gum Cheese 5.6. 10 AM.

Anne came to watch Tan and Bren while Angie is in China with Dallin, so I took off right away and got to the parking lot at about 8:30. There was another car there - larger SUV with no obvious stickers or racks, so that was odd. No one was obviously on the rock.

I set off up the trail with my Osprey Exposure 50 pack (my favorite climbing pack - can even hook up fruit boots and leashless tools on the back panel fairly easily). It was a chilly 28 degrees and I had on smartwool light weight top and bottom, REI Mistral shoeller pants, my Mountain Hardwear Windstopper vest, my Oakley Softshell hoodie (alas, they don't sell them this year), my TNF Apex Bionic Aerobic jacket (the one I lived in every single last day of Ecuador - it's been washed - doh!), and once I got to the crag, I put on my Red Ledge Primaloft belay jacket (total clearance from a store in Breckenridge where I also got my TNF stuff, like the Oakley I got on steepandcheap.com - if you want stuff like 90% off that's the place)

At the top it was obvious someone was there, but they had some saws and shovel type gear. A guy was fixing the fence where people were hanging gear and leaning on it. He seemed to think that people were vaulting it and running downhill, so he was going to put a stop to that by gathering up brush and making an obstacle course for them. If that's the case it's an admirable cause. He also mentioned that vandals frequently stole the route name plaques (which I really appreciate and wish were more common) but since you'd have to lay in the dirt to get to them, they leave the bench plaques alone. Lazy vandals.

I wasn't sure what to do, since my plan had been to lead rope solo something just to test it out, but I didn't know if that would be okay or not with a spectator, so I hiked up top and checked out anchors and all, noticing that the tiny crag to the East had some interesting routes reminiscent of the Traverse Wall at Swan Mountain Road outside Breckenridge/Keystone in Colorado. I also found two variants of anchors for the section between the 5.11 and the Eastern 5.8. Have to try that as well sometime.

I also found what I think would be an interesting new 5.8 on the Red Rock proper, just in a place between stuff that isn't developed yet. Interesting indeed ...

So I decided what-the-hey and started building the foundation of any Lead Rope Solo system - a bomber mult-directional bottom anchor. I slung a keyhole, got an upward-pull nut in solid, and got a very solid tricam in (lots of people don't like tricams, but they work great for this application) all semi pre-equalized, but then added a sliding x to it as well, so it should do the job. I think.

About that time the guy left (wondered if I should ask if he is the dentist). He said that if no one was coming to be my partner I could just top-rope solo. So nice when people are open-minded.

I harnessed up, shoed up (madrock flash lace with socks on!), set up my belay system and headed up.

I had a slew of minor issues, the most annoying of which is my belay system kept locking up on me, which wasn't too bad until the 2nd to last bolt was an odd clip, and mantling the little bulge by the offwidth crack I got hung up when it locked on me, so I had to wedge myself in the crack and hang by my stomach while I pulled up slack. About then my fingers got really cold (still in the shadows, crag facing roughly Northwest) so I stopped atop the bulge where it gets flat and pocketed my hands for a bit. Maybe if I wore fingerless gloves?

I clipped the right set of top anchors and just threaded them, then dropped the rope down the route and undid my belay system and threaded my Petzl Reverso3 (love that one). I tied into the end of the rope for safety, undid my daisy and stowed it, then started rapping down.

I cleaned on the way down, which is the first time I've cleaned rapping. I had a tiny hassle undoing a backup clove hitch at the 2nd bolt hanger. It was a hassle to set too. Oh well, it's all good edumacation. And my hands thawed inside my leather rapping gloves.

At the bottom I paused to take my pic, then while I had a toprope set up for myself, started on the very vertical bouldery start to what may become a new 5.8. It was a blast for the first 10' or so, then I had to downclimb since with my current solo belay system it is a pain to manually take up slack, which was difficult with the overhang. I'll have to get that worked out down the road if I'm going to keep this up. My toes were pretty cold so I put my running shoes back on with both pair of socks on.

I checked out a few other routes for possible bomber anchor setups, then since I had to be home at noon I packed up and headed to the car.

It was a ton of fun, and a great way to learn and grow. More later....

ECUADOR - Monday, November 24, 2008

2008-12-05T18:21:00.002-07:00

Got up at 5:30, made a protein shake, rinsed out all my containers and packed them, packed dirty clothes from last night, took a shower, and hauled all my stuff down at 6:30 to the lobby. I had the breakfast, then went up to the room for last-minute cleanup, and checked out. My ride was waiting and I had an easy trip to the airport.

There I had typical Latin-American issues with customs and immigration, and to the tune of "last call" I ran to the gate, only to hear them announce it every 5 minutes for the next half hour. lol.

The plane was half-empty (or half-full) so we all got our own rows. I stretched out and snoozed some here and there, and took some cool pictures along the flight.

I remember how impacted I was on the way down by Panama - after reading a book about the Darien Gap earlier in the year. I got some shots of the Key West Airport in Florida.

In Atlanta customs and immigration were merely annoying and slow, but otherwise not bad. And here I am sitting typing waiting to fly to SLC.

(this whole series was typed on my Acer Aspire I purchased from Amazon while sitting in hotels, haciendas, and in the airports - the batteries really did last the whole trip)

ECUADOR - Sunday, November 23, 2008

2008-12-05T18:15:00.002-07:00

Got up at 7, had breakfast in the hotel, then packed my stuff up. In the hall I noticed out the window that there was a street behind the hotel with some mountain outfitter type stores, so I decided to give them a looksee. They were closed, so I went out to the market, and it was barely open as well. Sunday morning is lazy day in Quito. I walked a bit further and discovered art being sold along the sidewalk in a city park, and saw green tents lining the sidewalk so checked them out. Another market!

I bought some more gifts, and had tons of fun experimenting and learning with my limited Spanish. Great fun. On the way back I ran into Mike and Chuck and told them about the other market. I ducked back into my room to drop off stuff and went out to eat. I found a sandwich place and had a Sanduach de Cubano (had one in Mexico and loved it) and Jugo de Banana y Pina.

I went back out to the market and ran into Chuck who thanked me for finding the city park market. I went to the outfitters and they were open this time and one of the store managers/owners knew Javier and we talked for a bit. I went back to the hotel to prepare for the evening. We were going to a much fancier place this time, so I "dressed up" a bit.

We met in the lobby at 6:45 to pool tips etc. for the guides and staff, then Javier and Sebastion came in and we talked for a few minutes. I gave Javier the tent stake I found in my stuff, then off we went for the drive to the edge of town in the hills to the hacienda. It was a really nice restaurant owned by a former guide who married a client, quit guiding, sold his business to Javier, and opened the restaurant.

After ordering we got the grand tour (his friend wasn't there that night, but the staff knew Javier) and hung out for a while by a 8' wide fireplace (not lit, but impressive nonetheless). We saw some pictures of the owner's mountaineering days. Dinner was served. I had the potato soup, and shrimp with rice noodles. The sauce was wonderful, sweet and spicy at the same time with a light but thick breading. Really good end to a great trip.

Back at the Isabel we talked for a few minutes more (I was elected to be photo-central and manage that). Eric and I will most likely do something alpine in Washington this coming year.

I did my final packing, then went to bed.

ECUADOR - Saturday, November 22, 2008

2008-12-05T18:07:00.003-07:00

I got up to pouring drizzle, and Javier was the only other one up. I sat in the cook tent with him (warm) and we talked a bit. We figure the rain made the snow just that much worse, since it would melt the crystals under the slab while making the slab that much heavier. Much more dangerous. We decided it would be best just to go to Quito and try checking into the Reina Isabel early if possible and do a day of shopping. As everyone finally got out of bed, we talked and all agreed (especially when I mentioned that the Isabel had heat and we could dry out our crap).

We ate some great eggs and then packed up our stuff in the rain and took off down the road. As we took off we ran into a school group that had walked up and it was fun with Pepe and the kids running along beside, behind, and ahead yelling directions and advice.

At one point Javier asked some kids to stand on the bumper for balast, we when we offered, he refused. I explained "if we fall off the back and get dead, our wives will be very rich, if they fall off the back and get dead, their parents will be very sad". We thought about the sad truth of that for a few seconds.

When we got down to the pavement the van that had brought the kids was waiting for them. We took off down the pavement and saw some more condors.

Beautiful. At the final checkpoint the police were there for some obvious permit dispute, and no one looked happy. They moved to let us through, and we headed down to town.

We drove into Quito and stopped at a mall, all decorated for Christmas (according to Javier since September) and ate at a Crepe place. We sortof pooled our resources and ate a bit of this and that and split the bill (since it was off the itinerary).

Javier called and got us all single rooms at the Isabel, and we drove in to check in around 3PM. Chuck talked them into allowing us to keep the rooms til Monday by paying a single supplement. Overall pretty reasonable for what we got. We all went to our rooms and spread our stuff out to dry. I rinsed out some stuff and hung it to dry so I would have some clothes for the party Sunday night.

I went out then about 4PM to check out the neighborhood and found the market, and a spiral mall (totally cool).

I bought a few things and then went back to the hotel, ate some of my stash, and got ready for bed. Just as I was about to fall asleep Chuck called. He and Daniel were going out on the town and asked if I wanted to go. I said sorry I'd rather sleep, then crashed.

ECUADOR - Friday, November 21, 2008

2008-12-05T17:57:00.002-07:00

In the morning, I had some clothes I rinsed out that didn't dry, so I packed them in a ziplock and put them in the tent bag.

Antisana is unusual because it's harder to get to than most other peaks in Ecuador (except for El Altar, which requires a three-day jungle trek). There is a private road that requires a permit from the landowner (though on the internet no one claims to have been refused a permit it is another layer of hassle). We had to pass through three checkpoints. Finally the road stopped being paved and turned straight to crap.

We got stuck in the mud several times (Javier driving the Toyota), requiring us to be towed out by Sebastion (in the Mitsubishi). Pepe climbed up on the roof and started yelling directions. He jumped off and on several times without us stopping, so he could run (run, fast, at 14,000' or more) ahead and look for a path.

We finally got to the end of the road, where another guide that Javier knows had a client in a huge center-pole type tent (the classic cook tent like on expeditions). We went a ways past and set up camp there. Sebastion offered that we could trade a training hike for setting up the tents, so we agreed and went to work.

When we were done it was nearly 2 PM so several of us wanted to get to sleep, but we had a snack and hit the trail to take our crampons and axes up to a cache at 15,500' (camp was at 14,900') to make the night a bit easier. So much for the swap ;)

When we got back we ate and watched Antisanna, finally peeking out of the clouds and looking so amazingly huge! We had a final pep talk, and went to our tents to pretend to sleep til 10 PM, when we would be roused out of our stupor and set up the trail at 11.

I put in my contacts early so I wouldn't have to do it at 10, which would take a bit longer than I would have, and tried sleeping. I think I did a little, since I was fairly rested at 10. I had cereal with yogurt again, and tried the Cliff Recovery Apple Cider ( a bit thick for me ). We headed up in a thick mist, and were amazed that Sebastion took us right to the cache. We grabbed our stuff and stuck it on our packs, then went the last few hundred feet to the foot of the glacier, where we put on our crampons, stashed our poles, and switched to axes.

We roped up, Daniel, Chuck and Javier on one. Pepe and Eric on another. Mike and Sebastion and I on the last. We began climbing up the not-too-steep foot of the glacier where it was very hard freeze-thaw consolidated rime. Huge crystals glowed in the ice. Cracks ran every which way, but they were only about 4" across and not a big deal.

As we climbed higher, the snow turned to hard-pack that we broke through constantly (worse for me as the heaviest climber in the whole group). Under the slab were large loose crystals of unconsolidated snow. My nightmares from the day before? Eric got spooked and Pepe stopped to dig a pit. Just then we began breaking through deep. Sebastion and I both broke through to our hips into crevasses, and Chuck went in up to his armpits and Javier did as well, though I didn't see how deeply. Daniel went into arrest, classic first response. Good training.

We all pulled ourselves out then went up to see the pit. Sebastion tapped the 4' square block of snow with a foot deep trench around it, and the whole slab slid down. Ouch. Eric said no way and he and Pepe boogied. I tried yelling "wait for me" but Sebastion said we would go up another few hundred feet and do another pit. Bob, the client from the other guide went past us and on up with his guide.

The next pit proved bad as well, so we all turned around. One thing between us and Bob was that as a group of eight we had a bigger impact on the snowpack, while if it was only two, the odds were slightly better.

We headed down and quickly entered a whiteout. We seemed to wander in the hills of the moraine, finally seeing a spotlight that Javier left on in the Toyota (good thinking). We got back to our tents at 3 AM and crashed. I pulled my contacts and slept til 7 nonstop. Great.

ECUADOR - Thursday, November 20, 2008

2008-12-05T17:41:00.002-07:00

Sure enough, I tossed and turned half the night, and at 2AM I was so stiff and sore I could hardly move - what a tough day yesterday was. I went to the hut and got some hot chocolate (Swiss Miss) and drank some, then decided to give it a shot. Chuck decided to bail, so it was two teams of two and one team of three.

I had my stuff pretty much ready, so it didn't take long, and I had some corn flakes and yogurt and then headed up with my rope-mates Mike and Sebastion. We hiked up the same beginning as for Norte, then angled off toward the glacier, at the foot of which we cramponed up. Amazingly, the very first thing we had to do was climb a narrow chute at about AI3, single-tool French style. It was a lot of fun, even at 16,000'. Overall it was steep, but the snow was fantastic. Near the top was another section of lower angled AI3, maybe 3- if there is such a thing. In the guidebooks it's rated AD (French for "a bit difficult") and I'd say that's about right. We made the summit under goal, hung around for a bit enjoying our speed and success.

Fantastically, it turned out that Mike had lost a crampon somewhere along the way, so it was a good thing I'd been kicking good steps (I was in the middle of our rope, so he followed me). We swapped out ropes so I was in the middle with Javier and Daniel. We had to immediately downclimb the steep section, again, French Style, and it was great fun. I kicked solid steps so Mike could come down with Sebastion, and they hand-over-hand went down our rope like a fixed rope, then after they passed us Javier, Daniel and I simulclimbed the rest of it to the flats where we rested, drank, and stripped down some.

We had good, but steep, walking down, and got to the top of the chute in good time. Mike found his crampon there (Pepe had found it and placed it at the top of the chute). Mike and Daniel got lowered, and I got to climb down, which again, was great fun. I got to pull a few downclimbing mixed moves, using my axe in a narrow band of rock, and taking some rock hand and crampon holds. I can hardly wait for Liberty Ridge now.

We walked down the rest of the way to the hut and variously napped or ate and packed up our stuff. The horses were there waiting for us, so we got our bags in a pile for them, and I changed to my running shoes. We headed all the way down to the trucks at 13,000'. We got in one and left the other for Pepe to pack when the horses got down.

We drove to "La Estacion" where we ate, and picked up our baggage from storage. Pepe caught up to us quickly (everything he did was quickly btw). We continued on to "La Carrion" our hacienda for that night. I ended up with the single room, which was cool, since I got to lay all my stuff out and plan for two bags for Antisana - one I could just leave in the SUV and the other I could bring into my tent.

We ate in a much fancier environment there. Really nice, then went to bed early. I had nightmares about disaster on Antisana and was pretty freaked for the first part of the night.

ECUADOR - Wednesday, November 19th, 2008

2008-12-05T16:00:00.000-07:00

Starting from Iliniza Base Camp (our camp near the "end of the road" at 13,050' near the shrine). Sebastion and Javier were guiding us on this trip - Pepe would pack up camp and haul it to the Hut at Iliniza, at about 15,500'.

Along the way we got a great view of Cotopaxi.

We hiked up to the hut, where we paused for a hot drink and snack (Javier's cooks were there, having hauled our stuff up) then headed up for Iliniza Norte (North) approximately 16,800' (having started at the lower camp at 13,000').

It was a long hard climb, and the top couple hundred feet have some low 5.3-6 moves.

It was great to hit the small summit and then we down-climbed (on rappel) and lowered through the 5.x (hard to climb harder at 16,000') and then made the horrible slog through the loose rock to the hut.

Javier was taking pictures of us for his guiding brochures, so I showed off some, doing a great lieback with a foot-smear on crystals descending a slight roof, then taking a small-hand crack. In my Baturas. Fun fun.

We ate, rested, ate again, and made plans for that night - to wake at 2AM, hit the trail around 3AM, and head up Iliniza Sur (South) at about 17,400'. The guides explained it was a tough itinerary, and that we could bail if we wanted to. No hard feelings. We were all tempted, but I said "Just be honest - when they wake you at 2AM just tell them how you feel."

Again, bed-time around 6PM, since the sun goes down then.

ECUADOR- Tuesday, November 18th, 2008

2008-12-04T20:10:00.002-07:00

We had breakfast at the hacienda, then packed up stuff we would not be needing at Iliniza to leave there in storage, and got in our two SUV's. I left my big backpack, since on this trip we would never use them, and I left my hotel and flight bag inside it.

We drove to the gate to the national preserve and started hiking, while they took our stuff up.

We hiked up to 13,000' and found our camp all set up and waiting for us. We picked tents and I got a loner - good deal since I spread out so badly.

After lunch we set out up the trail to about 14,000' just to stretch our legs. We saw on lone condor. Cool and unusual (they usually travel in groups of two or so).

We got back, had supper, and since the sun goes down around 6pm every day of the year, turned in early.

I need to point out that the food was outstanding. Pepe and Javier were the main cooks and especially the "sopa de pepe" everything was excellent, tasty and appealing - even at altitude.

ECUADOR - Monday, November 17th, 2008

2008-12-03T19:45:00.003-07:00

Today we had breakfast at the hotel again, and packed up to leave. We threw all our stuff, except our passports which we left in the hotel safe, into two SUV's and headed out down the road.

Today we set out up Guagua Pichincha, approximately 15,700'. It wasn't too bad, I think we all did pretty good.

We then drove to a hacienda on the way to Iliniza (La Estacion), had supper and crashed in our rooms.

Supper was classic old-school several courses by attentive staff, and an employee of the hacienda banked a nice fire in the adjoining section between our two rooms (Chuck and Eric in one, Daniel and I in the other). I rinsed out some clothes and hung them to dry by the wood stove overnight.

ECUADOR - Sunday November 16, 2008

2008-12-02T11:31:00.003-07:00

We met each other at breakfast. Mike, Eric, Chuck (who originated this trip), Daniel and me. After a breakfast of eggs, juice, little rolls, and cereal with yogurt, we met in the lobby with Pepe and Javier, two of the guides. The third, Sebastion, was doing some continuing education credit and would hook up with us later.

After our meeting, Pepe took us out on a road trip to the two equators. One was discovered by the French in the 1700's and is not accurate, since back in the day they thought the Earth was round. DOH! It's about 10,000' fatter in the middle. But sea level is still sea level and Quito is about 9300' above sea level. It rolls over the hills, so it varies some.

The second Equator was surveyed totally scientifically and because of the water-down-the-drain test, you know it's the real one. There was also a little gag test about walking down the equator with your eyes closed - most people can't do it. I did, but it was real tough and I blamed Tai Chi. The tour was great and I highly recommend it to anyone - there were recreations of tribal ruins and lifestyle and our guide was really fun.

After the "REAL" equator we went to the theme park area developed around the "OLD" equator and ate. I just had a chicken sandwich and fanta. We got to watch some dance exhibition and I got some cool pics.

Then we had to make a choice - walk downhill to a housing development in an "extinct" crater, or ride the tram. We voted to ride the tram. The top is around 13,000' and we walked up the trail about 1200' higher then returned and got back on the tram. On the tram Pepe asked if we wanted to climb a church. Well duh! So we went to an old church with a 300' bell tower you could go up (later I learned it is known as "The Basilica"). It was really cool and gothic and pretty scary in places going up a narrow spiral staircase then finally up rebar ladders slippery from the misty rain.

Finally we headed to Javier's office for his Ecuadorian guide service, which was on the floor above his apartment in a really nice gated community. He presented a slide show about our itinerary, then his wife brought in his two kids and three plates of Ecuadorian pizza. It was pretty good. His wife is Dutch, his kids have dual citizenship, and one is going to the American School and the other to the German School. Amazing world.

We headed back to the hotel and slept, another long day in Ecuador acclimatizing.

ECUADOR - Saturday November 14th, 2008

2008-12-01T14:33:00.003-07:00

Got up, tossed the rest of my stuff together and we boogied to the airport.

Delta messed with my head for a second. I waved my eticket at the triage person, who sent me to the baggage check counters. There she asked if I had checked my bags, and I said, no, that's why I'm here. She sent me to the kiosk to print up a new boarding pass with baggage checked in on it. It refused to let me do it, and I got a kiosk smurf to help me, and she said it was too late, I'd have to reschedule my flight. I mentioned that to the triage person who sent me to the full-service window. Where international travellers are supposed to go. Smooth sailing, but it made me have to practically run to catch my plane to Atlanta that was boarding the last few passengers as I approached.

Food service was lousy and they kept trying to give me peanuts. I guess that alone is supposed to worth the extra $300 for business class. LOL. The movie was "Journey to the Center of the Earth" and it wss actually good. Should be great on Imax 3D.

In Atlanta I called Verizon 611 and got a runaround about how the International Division was only open M-F 8-6. I finally got someone that knew what they were talking about and got the real International service number and turns out I have to pull the Sim card to activate it. No easy feat in a busy airport. I finally got International GSM service turned on, but instead of the leisurely hour I thought I had to eat etc. I now had about 20 minutes to get to my gate on the other end of the terminal, on the train. Again, I got there just as it boarded, so no food for me.

Well, much like USAIR, who I think has the worst domestic flights ever, but decent international, Delta had great service. They fed us right away, and it was real food. I got to watch some TV shows, some documentaries, and "Wanted" which I wanted to see when it was at the theater.

In Ecuador, immigration and customs was easy, and there was indeed a huge line of people waving signs greeting business persons and loved ones. Just as I got to the door I found one of my guides, and I guess he looked at my faxed passport, and called out "Rick". It was Javier, and he grabbed my bags and took me to a cafe, where he ordered a chocolate caliente (hot chocolate) for me - which was not as sweet a the US counterpart.

We waited for the Continental flight, which was over an hour late (glad I didn't take that one). Two more team members were on that flight. We headed out to Javier's SUV and loaded our bags, and headed to the Hotel. There we were greeted by a team of porters who hauled our bags in. I got to room with Daniel, who tipped the porters, and we headed to sleep. Day one.

Wed. Last Climb before Ecuador

2008-11-14T11:15:00.002-07:00

I had to drop by the doctor's to check on my foot from last summer (checked out okay) my wrist (got some great x-rays that he passed around the office to show my odd radius/ulnar joint - but my scaphoid is just dandy) and my South America drugs (drat presumed uncleanliness).

I got done too early to go home to meet DW, but too late to go to the pharmacy to get my drugs, so I decided to go to gymnastics and cheer for Dallin. It was pretty fun, and I got to drive with Bren, singing silly songs about chainsaws all the way home.

We changed and DW and I drove to the gym. Along the way I decided I really wanted to get one more climb in, and DW didn't have her stuff, so she borrowed a rental when we got there. We quick ducked into REI for a last-second Ecuador purchase, then back to the gym and it was packed. Solid. Three Scout-type groups all over the place, plus a handful of lead climbers (like elbow-to-elbow lead climbers).

So after digging around for a few minutes, I finally settled on the evil black 5.8+ that has toadally kicked my butt every time I got on it. I went up with actually decent technique to the sticking spot and suddenly it made sense and after a couple of scary moves I "ran" the rest of the way to the top, making what I thought was thin and sketchy moves the whole way. DW said I pretty much frogged it after the sticking spot, but I did some backsteps matches smears and one crossover, so I'm happy enough. Also, I did speed it pretty good. Anyway....

Then on to the treadmill. The Scouts were being "shot" by the Momentum web guy (camera shot) and he had lights all over, so I had to move the treadmill plug over one outlet taking over what amounts to two treadmills to do it. I got on with a 30lb pack and "ran" at 2.0 and 30% for 1000' in 28 minutes. Woohoo!

Then I got off and changed and called it good. Home and sleep awaited.

Monday Nov 10 Climbing

2008-11-11T10:41:00.003-07:00

Monday after work I met DW and the kids at the gym. She put the kids in Mountain Room just as I pulled up, and we quickly got taped and harnessed and on. I decided my modified-x taping was going to work okay, based on the past few times (once no-tape and it sucked pretty bad).

DW did a few 5.11's to work on her onsiting for the comp. I did a red 5.9 on the beginner's wall and did a good job of sending it (I think right now that's about my limit). I have been experimenting with the LaSportiva shoes I got a long time ago that were way too small for me then, but don't feel too bad now. I was joking with someone a week ago that "if you can get into your climbing shoes they're too big for you".

DW did great, and I did so-so the rest of the time. I tried the evil red 5.9 on the curvy wall but didn't do that good, and I tried the black 5.8+, no go, and the yellow 5.9 on the curvy wall again, but I just couldn't get my feet and hands to think together tonight. I was about to get on the yellow 5.10 (the huge juggy one that overhangs a lot) when Nate came to get us. Daycare alert.

Guess Dal and Bren had a slug-fest and were being evicted for the night. Dal seemed to be the culprit, so we put him in time-out and went to the cafe for the rest of them. I was going to ride the treadmill but this morning I emailed back and forth with the climbing group and discovered that we were only going to hike fully-loaded once uphill. The rest of the time we're in jeeps or mules (that'll be cool) and with a much lighter pack.

I decided that recovering and restoring were more important, so I bailed on tonights workout and when DW left with the kids (we were done for the night, since the kids were out of daycare) I went to the Verizon store to get a foreign SIM card for my phone so it will work in Ecuador.

Nate said I should give a slide-show at the gym when I get back. Though it's called slide-show still, it's really a pc or tv picture "slide-show". That would be fun. I did it for family when I got back from Mexico last winter.

More Saturday Climbing

2008-11-10T15:55:00.002-07:00

I had to go to the gym tonight to do more treadmill, so we went ahead and dragged everyone down and forced the kids to climb ;) (the little monkeys love to climb, and poor Tan sits there "climbing gym" over and over and over in her little soft voice)

When it was our turn DW did her favorite 5.11 that she did really well on (preparing for the onsite comp she's going to see about doing at the Quarry on Saturday while I'm on the plane) and I started up a 5.9+ (they took the plus off when they retagged) with some good blocky holds, and did well enough at the beginning (where I normally seem to do best) then moved over to the ancient brown 5.8 that always kicked my butt back in the day. Tonight I just flew up it - amazing!

We left the kids in Mountain Room (their normally-cool daycare - depending on who's in there) and went upstairs. I totally loaded up today - 75 lb - and slogged my way up 1,000' in my boots. Horrible.

DW rode the treadmill pretty steep and turned around for a while (real interesting quad workout) and then since she got started before me, she went to the weight bench to finish with some wild ab and arm work.

Then we went home and passed out.

DryTooling Again

2008-11-08T14:55:00.002-07:00

Saturday, Nov. 11, 2008. 29 degrees, snow on the ground, rocks damp.

Nathan, DW and I went up the trail seeing fairly new deer prints in the mud and snow mixed with leaves. Nathan set up a toprope over the 5.8/5.9/5.10 section.

John showed up (friend of Nate's) and we sent him up first. He started on the 5.10 and angled over to the 5.8. It was nice watching his smooth methodical game of chess with the rock and tools.

Then we sent Nathan, and finally Angie up. She did really well, since this was a bit above what she's comfortable doing. Though she looks like a real pro in this pic.

John had to go, and Nate had to get to work in a few, so we said goodbye for now to John, and I sent Nate up again one last shot today. He worked his way up the 5.9R trad route and again, looked like he busted some really cool moves. He's got great balance.

I got on, and for some insane reason started up the first 5.10 roof. I did some great moves, but every time I pulled over the roof I popped out. One time my tool slid down the crack and just barely stuck at the bottom. Nate had to run to work, but left his rope for us for a bit.

I managed to get just past the roof and popped everything but one tool off, swinging out in space (though only about 12' up -- great decking potential there). DW screamed fearing crampons in her forehead. I got back on and lowered, then went up the 5.9. Did a cool "walk the tools up the crack" sequence and got into the only good crack on the route about halfway up, then was so totally pumped my left hand was so swollen I couldn't hang on anymore, so I bailed.

We ran the rope down to Nate at Momentum and then headed home. Great morning with great people. Thanks all.

Momentum Climbing - Mon. Nov. 3 2008

2008-11-04T11:52:00.004-07:00

We had Anne tonight, so we went to Momentum together, DW and I. After harnessing up and all, I decided to try sans-taping to see how that went. At Red Rock the other day I didn't use tape on my 5.10a, and it went just fine.

DW warmed up on a 5.10 and I started on a new 5.6 in the middle of the beginner's wall. I decided that I needed some tape after all, so I just taped the middle joint of my third fingers. Hope that helps some.

DW then worked a few nasty 5.11's, and I did a "New" 5.6 - turns out it's that nasty 5.7 beige one that messes me over at the end. I plowed through that sequence and sent it.

In the middle of all this, a lady came up to Angie and said she was really interested in WERC, but couldn't come Tuesdays ever ever. So we patiently explained that she could still hang with the girls, and that she could take private lessons if she wanted, so we asked what she wanted to do and what she could do now. Guess she could lead 5.9 trad okay, but that 5.10 trad kicked her butt. Well, I could have come up with a list of exercises for her to try, but I don't think WERC could help her otherwise - so we suggested she hook up with Dawn - our favorite 5.10 Trad Girl. Not sure that was what she wanted to hear though.

Anyway, then I did a new grey route next to the green 5.9+ by the kids routes. It wasn't too bad - figure a low 5.8? Then I did the new black 5.8+ on the back short wall. It was a plus all right - and a hold was broken into a little one inch square rotating on the bolt. I took it anyway, but was nervous. I got about 2/3's up and decided it hurt bad enough to bail - the next move required a deadpoint off a backstep with really low lock-off, and I had abused my shoulder bad enough leading drytool on Saturday to decide to not push it.

All in all a good night climbing.

Then onto the real fun....

As part of my Ecuador Training Program, I'm using the really cool Freemotion Incline Trainer in the upstairs fitness center at Momentum.

In Ecuador, I'll be trying:
Iliniza Norte at 16,818 ft Ecuador's 8th highest peak, and Iliniza Sur at 17,267 ft the 6th highest peak in Ecuador, used to be one larger volcano that split in two. The North peak is easier, and except for the "El Paso de la Muerte", which can be a bobsled run if icy, is primarily a steep hike with a few 5.3 moves. The South peak is a steep snow walk, with the possibility of a sketchy bergschrund crossing.
Antisana, at 18,891 ft, is Ecuador's 4th highest volcano and one of the least climbed. It has a reputation for being a difficult and dangerous mountain because of the constant movement of the glacier including shifting seracs on the upper mountain.

Back to the present, I loaded up my pack, the Gregory Pallisade I got for free with my REI Member Benefit last year (combined with a 20% off member-only coupon - woohoo!). I like it especially because of the adjustable hip angle. I have a high iliac crest that ends just below my ribcage, so despite being 6'1" I have to get the small or medium size backpack (19" spine). I can rotate it so it sits at an angle that cuts in just inside that few inch band of narrow flesh. Feels good. I put a 50lb dumb-bell into the pack today, for a total of about 65lb - heaviest yet in this workout cycle. I got on the Incline Trainer in my pack and running shoes, set it for 30% angle and 1.0 MPH. I did 3 minute intervals of 1.0/1.1/1.2/1.3 for a total of 12 minutes, then did it all over again three total times for 36 minutes of workout. I hit 1,000' at 35 minutes. Good job.

DW rode one, but I don't know what her stats were. Also, Banner and Summer were riding treadmills (good friends of ours from the gym), so it was a bit busier than I'm used to upstairs.

So that's it for tonight. On Tuesday Evening is WERC, so I'm going to head up after work and work out again, then switch cars with DW so she can do WERC and I can take the kids home and watch evil shows with them....

Dry Tooling, Draper Red Rock, 11.01.2008

2008-11-03T13:36:00.002-07:00

Woohoo. Got up at 6 after spending the eve before arranging my pack - made tougher by the fact that we had invited a handful of newbies with no gear, and had no clue what they would bring. Packed the car, and Ann arrived. We took off up to the Draper Red Rock, below Suncrest Subdivision off Mike Weir Drive.

We met Michael first, who assured us that a body would in fact fit in the trunk of a Miata. Really. Probably wouldn't even have to cut it up. But he didn't want to share how he knew that. We hung out packing his stuff (rock shoes, harness, rope, camera) and then took off up the trail. It was cool because the trail was wet from the rain all the night before, and the damp leaves fallen from the scrub oak.

We got to the benches and started getting our stuff together and on. We headed over to Gum Cheese, the crappy 5.6- (in Mixed Rating, I'll give it M3) and Michael set a toprope on it. I showed him a few ways to use the tools, then DW did a demo on it. We put boots and crampons on Michael and turned him loose with tools. It was fun, and we got some good shots with his camera (waiting for pics) and as well with DW's camera. I left mine in my pack for the time being.

Just as he got done, Nathan showed up, and we put him up it. He had some ice experience, and adjusted pretty nicely, doing some cool moves.

Then it was my turn, and I decided to use my energy progressing to leading. I went over to Baby Teeth, 5.6/M4 and with the near-silent continuous praying of DW, led it in ice gear. I heard very minor drifts of conversation, so intent was my concentration, but heard a few compliments of my style. Far out. Leading on points was very different from leading in shoes. Any kind of slip would result in a very dangerous fall. Sharp stuff everywhere. Oh, yeah! At the top I leaned up to the right into a large off-width crack, and managed to clean it (ROCK!) enough to get a tool in and match.

Setting the anchor at the top was made a bit tougher because I got "clever" and wrapped and tied my pre-made toprope sliding-x webbing anchor so that I could not undo it one-handed. My brain was a bit glucose-low and it never occurred to me to just hang off a daisy and do it two-handed. So I untied it one-handed hanging off-balance on my tool and two crampon points. DOH! But I did it.

At the bottom I discovered that there was a minor technical error on behalf of the belayer using gri-gri technique on an ATC. I lived. And I sure had no intention of falling.

The other three then toproped it, and did an excellent job, all of them. It was great. After that we decided to send Ropegun Nathan to climb the 5.10a starting in the cave (in rock shoes, no tools). After he came down we managed to talk DW into heading up. It was great. She'd never done a 5.10 outside (she started one once, but got gripped and came down) and this was a great first. Nathan bouldered up the block to her and offered some great beta, and she did it. Great job baby!

Then Nathan decided he wanted to try drytooling it. While he geared up, for some unknown insane reason, I decided I'd try it in rock shoes as well. I managed to make it with some difficult (for me) moves, with Michael on the boulder this time, cheering me on. Far out. I did it - my first 5.10 ever, inside or out.

Then Nathan and Michael decided to drytool it. I'd give the first part, in the cave, about an M7 (give or take). It was sketchy, and Nathan came off and sortof decked (butt and helmet contacted). But he went up to where the choss was about to start. Good job! Michael did an excellent job as well, and actually worked the choss.

We pulled all our gear then (Michael was on top and removed his crampons and hiked down after pulling the anchors at the top) and packed down to the car. I can hardly wait for the pictures from Michael's camera.

It was great. Maybe next weekend?

Halloween 2008

2008-11-03T13:30:00.002-07:00

It was a ton of fun. Took Dallin, Brennan and Tan out up the street out front of the house. We went up and back, filling Tan's bag so full she couldn't carry it, so I stuffed it in my hoody pocket. Ran into a handful of other parents out in the sleety rain and it was pretty funny. When we got back to the house we dropped off Tan and headed up the next street.

By the time we got done with that Bren was pretty wasted, and as I told them "you have enough candy to get sick for a month, so you don't need any more" and we called it a fun night.

Thur Oct 30

2008-10-30T22:32:00.004-06:00

Had Bren's B'day party (he wasn't able to do a party with his friends on his real b'day) and I took a bunch of pic's with DW's camera - so look for them on her blog.

Afterward we went to Momentum to climb. DW climbed in her Kangaroo costume for a 5.8 and a 5.10. I climbed a new 5.6 made up out of the old black 5.6 holds. It was really pretty fun. Then I went over to try the black yin-yang route which now had a 5.10 sticker on it. I got up a few moves and that was pretty cool. DW (in regular clothes now) did a 5.11. Then I tried a green 5.10 on the curvy wall. Actually got up a fair ways before getting stuck. Someday....

Then DW did that same route and really worked it. Great Job Baby!

Then I put on my backpack, this time loaded to about 40 lb and my running shoes and hopped on @ 30% and 1.3, working my way up to 1.5 mph. Got 1,000' in 30 minutes, then stopped. This is my first time doing three in a week. (did it yesterday as well with 50 lb pack and my big mountain boots, 1,500' in 55 min @ 24% with 30% intervals averaging 1.3 mph and 175bpm hr) BTW: yesterday and today were the first time I did this w/o holding the handles in a deathgrip the whole time. Woohoo!

More later... look for a report of our dry-tooling adventure scheduled for Sat. early...

Short Climbing Wrapup

2008-10-28T16:19:00.002-06:00

In case my memory is lapsed....

When we got back from Rainier, I think we went climbing on Monday and Thursday evening last week.

I don't remember Monday, but on Thursday I on-sited a new unrated climb on the curvy tall wall facing the cafe window. Everyone said it was 5.9, but I on-sited it, so it's probably a 5.7, right?

On Monday I did the treadmill at the gym that goes to 30% of elevation and walked at 2.0 with a 60 lb backpack on and worked my way up to 21% for 1,000' of gain in my running shoes.

On Thursday I did the same, but got up to 24% and work my expedition boots for 1,500' of gain.

On Monday of this week we climbed again, and DW and I ended up climbing with Richard and Rosanne, who have a son on the climbing team and are there all the time. So it's not memory this time - I didn't get to see most of what she climbed.

I got to do the new 5.6 on the other curvy wall, and found it easier than the other one. I also started two new 5.9's and popped off the one about halfway up. I was looking up to see I was a bit more than halfway, when I just suddenly came off. Richard didn't keep my rope as short as DW, so I fell a bit more than normal. LOL.

Then I did the treadmill again at 30% in running shoes with the pack. Amazing. 1,500' again.

I'm hoping to be in great shape for Ecuador in three weeks.

Mt. Rainier. October 17, 2008

2008-10-21T12:38:00.004-06:00

Got up and finished packing on the 17th and hit the road in the rental SUV.

Drove to Ashford, then on to Longmire where I checked in with the USPS and got an overnight permit - in case this all works out. The ranger was very nervous and said there were crevasses all over the Muir Snowfield and she suspected I would soon be dead. I did promise everyone at work that I wouldn't get dead. Let alone poor DW...

From the road I got some excellent shots of the mountain, standing out against the pure blue sky.

And looked down to see the gorgeous wet green lush foliage.

I got to Paradise and saw the new Jackson Visitor Center, and the soon-to-be-ruins of the old one. Oh, well. It took a while to find overnight parking (no signs, and bad directions from two rangers and I still don't know I was in the right place).

I finally got my stuff together and on my back and hit the trail, of course 200' lower than I would have liked to start, but again, oh well - it's all good for training.

I started up the stairs to the old visitor center, then around behind it to the left and started up the trail to meet the Skyline Trail. At about 6,000' I ran into some deer eating peacefully. I took a picture then alerted the hikers coming down, who hadn't noticed it about 100' off the trail. Oh, well.

At the end of the marked trail, Pebble Creek, the fork off the main Skyline Trail, I ran into the sign for the open crevasses. Woohoo!

Just shortly after this I ran into the first and only climber out that day, coming down. John had run into heavy duty knee-deep post-holing only 5 minutes up and had bailed. We talked about the trail, the attempt on Muir, and for him, a possible summit (?) and he briefly considered traveling with me, then continued on down.

I went up to his post-holed tracks, and saw what I considered to be a better line, and followed it up another several hundred feet up the rock bands and snowfield. It was about 5PM by now (I wasn't moving all that fast, alas) and the cloud had moved in pretty thick. I got a bit more than halfway from Pebble Creek to Moon Rock and ran into a suspicious-looking band of color and texture in the snow that I was nervously thinking to be a crevasse. I whacked the ground with my trekking pole and it sounded deep and boomy. But a few feet over it was sharp and brittle. Behind me it was sharp and brittle, so I decided not to risk it solo and wandered around till I found an area that sounded nice and solid and crossed there. I got a couple hundred feet past that and noticed that it was very dark and hard to see.

Notice you can barely make out the rocks around me at around 7,800' on the Muir Snowfield. Also the faint snow accumulating on my hat.

I decided that it would be pretty difficult in the next hour as it got dark to make it to Moon Rock in the hazy gloom. I had only about 100' of clear visibility, and though I trusted my GPS, I was nervous of the crevasses and knew it would be low going around Anvil Rock where the worst of the crevasses were open. In my efforts to maintain the trust of DW who graciously allows me to go on these solo adventures, I had to turn around.

As it was, the going was slow to the bottom, visibility worsened, and it got steadily colder and windier. I had a sausage/egg/cheese bagel from the Whittaker Cafe in my bag, and had that on the way down, having not eaten much on the way up (have to fix that some day soon). I missed the trail a few times, the snow was misting out of the cloud and made visibility even with a headlamp only about 50' (high-beams in a snowstorm effect).

Along the Skyline Trail I got to turning the light off and on, and eventually had it on pointing straight at my feet since it would only shine about 10' anyway. I got to stopping every hundred feet or so to do a quick circle check to make sure I wasn't going off a cliff or anything and saw two glowing orange eyes staring back at me from a small group of trees. I quietly prayed it was some passive animal like a deer or even sasquatch and walked confidently past it (there were signs all over that they had recently had some black bear issues in the area).

Shortly after I saw some lights along the East loop of the Skyline Trail, and recognized it as two hikers going down, so I flashed my headlamp at them. They flashed back. Fun socialization opportunity on a lonely mountain.

It was tough in my poor condition to find a way out of the old visitor center parking lot, but finally I made it to the car about 8:30PM and changed, ate, and drove to the MIL's house outside Seattle. What with the rain and traffic and all, it took about 4 solid hours from Paradise with a stop for gas and stop for a cell call to alert DW who was prayerfully thankful I was okay.

It was fun; I learned a lot; I had an adventure and it was way worth it in my training and an excellent shakedown for my next big adventure.

Thursday Oct 9,

2008-10-11T12:00:00.002-06:00

We had a minor glitch in getting started climbing tonight. It's the evil time of year when taxes must be paid finally. Normally my business taxes get done on April 14th, but I can't file my personal till the business ones are done, so I end up having to extend every year. Like most people then I procrastinate (I know a guy who is in the same boat and actually did his on April 20th, but still hasn't mailed them in), and finally got all my receipts and stuff together and had to take them to my tax guy tonight after 6.

We dropped off our stuff, chatted and explained for a bit, then raced to the gym.

First of all we dropped off the kids then DW did her onsite training, much like mine last time. For an hour I put her on random ropes and she had a minute to study out the route then go as high as possible. Of course, like I mentioned before, they're all hard, and it sucks, but it makes you attempt moves and routes you wouldn't normally do. She found a few that she wants to work later, so that's good anyway. For me (not sure about DW) it's psychologically damaging as well, because you will fail on everything you do. Sucks.

Then we gathered up the kids and Dal bouldered really well. He tried traversing with his eyes closed, but of course cheated, so he said next time I get to blindfold him. Then he worked on no-matching-hands traversing, and did great up to the corner. He worked it great, getting one more move before falling about eight times in a row, making finally about 4 moves past the corner. Good job.

Then Bren was toproping, and Tan exploded, so I took her out to the car to sit with a bottle, so I have no clue how that went. After about 20 minutes in the car they came out to climb in and off we went back home.

Good job everyone.

Climbing Report: Oct. 7

2008-10-08T15:40:00.004-06:00

We normally climb during the day on Tue, but Tan was sick, so DW had Tif stay home today. Since this is a WERC day, DW had to go climb tonight anyway, so we headed to Momentum right after work.

Since DW was going to climb in WERC, she belayed me. I first tried the evil purple 5.8 (HAH!) on the arete by the green arete route (which I guess must be a 5.7, since I did send it and haven't sent the purple one yet). And feeling totally whipped from my workout last night I decided to just train today.

(in case anyone is curious, I did 2 sets of 10 hanging abs/knee raises followed by 10 sets of 5 reps at 225 lb good form deadlifts from the floor, followed by 3 sets of 3 reps at 295 lb just for the CNS benefits - totally wasted on the posterior chain)

So what I did was just climb. I got on a rope, and anything that could be reached from that rope I started up. Sometimes 1/3 the way up, sometimes 2 moves, whatever. 5.9, 5.10, 5.11, 5.11d. Great fun. Totally wasted by the time I was done. I wrapped up doing a 5.5 that took everything I had.

We gathered up the kids and they climbed for a while. Tan did some great bouldering and Bren is on the verge of figuring out the overhanging corner to make the traverse, and Dal did the traverse each way, then on a challenge from the front desk, did it both ways without stopping. I told him the next challenge is to try to do it without matching hands (putting two hands on one hold at the same time), which is very difficult to do for some widely-spaced holds. I taught him how to reach under and turn his shoulders with his feet positioned forward (I'll see about getting a picture sometime) and he made it to the corner. Far out.

We got drinks and split a cookie, then we took off and DW stayed to manage her class. I think like 12 people came. Guess that proves a point to those who contended that the new WERC plan that Jeff came up with wasn't the right one. I think that's the most attendees since Laurie left for Colorado. Anyway, no more gossip...

At home we had a Sponge Bob marathon. We all cuddled up on the couch together until 9PM, then I put Tan and the Boys to bed and thanks again to the wonder of DVR, watched the uber-classic House of Dark Shadows.

DW came home, also totally wasted and went pretty much straight to bed. I stayed up for a little while longer, then packed my poor hands in various inflammation-reducing creams and gels and went to bed. Whew!

Thursday Night Climbing

2008-10-03T10:22:00.003-06:00

Since we're getting back into the normal routine, we took the boys climbing, since they haven't climbed in a while.

Dallin was great. He traversed back and forth on the smiley-face route and did a great job working the corner in reverse of how he normally does it. He took beta well and used it. He's really come a long way and his technique rocks. He said "Now that I'm taking gymnastics and rock climbing I'm going to be really strong".

Brennan did some traversing, and I managed to talk him going to the top a few times by saying "don't forget to climb up and kiss the buffalo". He also climbed to the top a few times on other routes off the traverse wall, and once got scared about downclimbing the "lightbulb" holds and I said "just jump" and he did from about 6' up. Good boy.

Tan didn't want to boulder tonight, she had DW put the harness on and rope her up. She ran up the rainbow route a ways then swung on the rope. Good to get the fear factor down.

Then it was our turn. DW said most everything on her BLOG, but I'll add in a few comments.

I did the evil unrated green arete from last time and sent it this time. It was tough getting past the spot I stopped twice last time, but good enough - done.

I started the evil maroon 5.9 DW did last time that K despises, and went about halfway when I got to thinking about my cramp from Tuesday. Youch. I have done a few small slopey/crimpy holds in a row here and there, but 20' sustained small/slopey/crimpy was as much as I felt like. Nice project though.

DW did a great job on her evil 5.10 green route. Amazing. She did just about everything she could think of at each of the dozen or so mini-cruxes. Good job.

And that's about all I have to say about that...